The Old Corner Book Store, Inc. Boston, Mass. THE DAYS OF A MAN VOLUME Two 1900-1921 DAVID STARR JORDAN, IQ2I From portrait by E. Spencer Macky. Presented to Stanford University by Mrs. Jordan THE DAYS OF A MAN BEING MEMORIES OF A NATURALIST, TEACHER AND MINOR PROPHET OF DEMOCRACY BY DAVID STARR JORDAN ILLUSTRATED VOLUME Two 1900-1921 Jungle and town and reef and sea, I have loved God's earth and God's earth loved me, Take it for all in all! Yonkers-on-Hudson, New York WORLD BOOK COMPANY 1922 WORLD BOOK COMPANY THE HOUSE OF APPLIED KNOWLEDGE Established 1905 by Caspar W. Hodgson YONKERS-ON-HUDSON, NEW YORK 2126 PRAIRIE AVENUE, CHICAGO By way of advancing their ideal of service, which is expressed in the motto "Books that apply the world's knowledge to the world's needs," the publishers present The Days of a Man, by David Starr Jordan. In these memoirs the reader will find not only the fascinating story of an active life of human service, but evidences of a philosophy that embodies a real science of living. Dr. Jor- dan is a master hand at adapting scientific knowledge to the needs of men, and in these pages he reveals much of his secret of fur- thering human happiness and enriching life JDM: 1-1 Copyright 1922 by World Book Company Copyright in Great Britain All rights reserved CONTENTS BOOK FOUR (1900-1906) PAGE CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX i 1. Association of American Universities Member- ship Eliot on medievalism Uninformed criticism 2. Fishing in Japan Annexation of Hawaii The Nuuanu Pali First impressions Stan- ford helpers Japanese students in America Effect of gentlemen's agreement Abe's adven- tures Otaki A social call Dinner a la Japonaise High standards Spooner's career Cormorant fishing A general feast The ancient fort a negligible barrier Kikuchi and Mitsukuri Dinner at the Maple Club --Odd protective tariffs Ito and Yamagata Base- ball in Japan 3. Picture Island Ebisu, the fisher god Dai- koku, another luck god Friendliness At night The tea house O-Cho-San's leave- taking Numazu Fujiyama revealed Tsu- ruga Godship no sinecure! In Nagasaki Formalin replaces alcohol Mogi O-Mime- San English eccentricities A superb trip Unzen 4. The lady repents Too cordially welcomed ! Putnam Weale The salt of death Berlin intrigue The Kaiser's Huns Prussian atrocities Stealing an observatory Various outrages The Hoover cow Misplaced confidence Romantic militarism A self- made general "The Valor of Ignorance" The "Old Buddha's" trick 5. Kawatana Watches of the night Kurume and Funayado Beautiful Miyajima Hiro- / 7 Contents PAGE shima Ebisu returns Abbott Kobe speaks English Osaka Wakayama The Bay of Waka 'A disconsolate giant A little lady Physical handicaps Our deferential young friend Garden of rest CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN 44 1. Otaki replaces Abe Dr. Schneder -- Unac- customed ceremony A study of the "hidden hills" A strange fish -- Thrifty monkeys "Fauna Japonica" Count Uesugi The earthquake at Ichinoseki The Tokaido - Morioka Morioka red iron Waste of talent Japanese psychology The grip of caste -- Gracious hospitality 2. Mutsu and the Kitakami Vagrant souls - "Fool lacquer" Aomori City- - "Blackiston's Line" -Hakodate A big rock-pool catch Mororan An afternoon off Edomo The chief and his family Official welcome My deficiencies revealed Ainu women The Ainu race Yamato invaders Ainu resist- ance A difficult problem 3. Crowded sea-wrack A new industry Luscious fruits - - Agriculture practically limited to rice Local flora " Manners makyth man" Japanese humor Poor economy The sage of Sendai Our helping hand The Shimonoseki affair Grant at Nikko Sendai generosity 4. "Cussing on the up grades" Off for the heights Sacred Nantai-san The author as botanist Kegon-no-taki and Lake Chuzenji - Lacy Ryuzu A flowery plain - - Yumoto and its surroundings Riotous ornament Social strategy 5. Addressing the teachers of Utsunomiya Yokosuka My strange preference Kuri- hama "birds" Perry at Kurihama - - Not : vi 3 Contents PAGE a bee Holiday throngs A little colloquy Typical traits Certain historic differences Native honesty Breaking the record ! - Kuma Aoki We start for Okinose - - Beauti- ful pools on Joga "Old Ladies' Homes" The incomparable fisherman Service the final end of training An exquisite gift - - Some Japanese wives Punctilio resolved lijima Yoshimi Fukukita Goodby to Japan CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT 83 1. A child of great promise 2. Stanford's second "Stone Age" Millions to play with Investigation of Hawaiian fisheries Hudson's fine work The beginning of a romance Many courtesies Honolulu's mu- seum and aquarium A huge lake of hard- ened lava Mauna Loa Mauna Kea Giant ferns - - Henshaw and the birds - - Per- force a settler Bewildering subspecies Biological friction Hawaiian fishes Tropi- cal but distinct Influence of ocean currents The great equatorial stream Further ex- plorations 3. A critical transition The local aristocracy Other racial groups An obvious situation Democracy grafted on racial oligarchy CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE 98 i. To the South Seas Verdant isles A veritable fairyland Apia on Upolu Pago Pago on Tutuila A marvelous harbor Conventional politics A surprised "national" Adjust- ment by arbitration --Our merry assistants Weird warning The Adlers fate The "Bush" Stevenson's pal Moors' romantic career Vailima Prussian officialism "Miss Jessie" meets the griffin Tusitala's tomb The trail to Lanuto A mountain C vii 3 Contents PAGE fernery I attend a luau Our call on Mata'- afa The taupou's duty Kava making Kava names Love refuses to fulfill the Law Lack of incentives for thrift "Mizhonery" A tragic feud "Lautverschiebung" in the South Seas Common origin Pulimatu and selini 2. Vaiula's alarm The reef at Apia Afele and his Coral ^ueen The Morays Coats of many colors Protective hues An agile blenny The amphibious skippy Flying fish Merita's paintings 3. Back to Pago Pago- A detestable disease Nu'uli The picturesque crew Mighty reef combers The spill I touch bottom Fita-fitas unperturbed - Hauled into the skiff Aboard the launch The ensign's predica- ment Sa'laotoga's letter - A few lines of Samoan Poisonous fishes Vicious mosqui- toes Official lack of etiquette tempered by justice and consideration Roosevelt's prompt response A question of "self-determination" Sampson-Schley controversy A last view 4. The Stanford board of trustees Actual organ- ization "Yale plan'* not acceptable Davis, Leib, and Hopkins The Hopkins Marine Station The doubtful assistant The cordial director The founder's tact CHAPTER THIRTY 133 1. My library of Zoology Other donations Fishery survey of Alaska Adjustment of breeds to river Hell's Gate catastrophe - - Passing of "big year" Scouring Puget Sound Wrangel Island and the sleeper sharks Kern County sharks - - Dolly Vardens by the score Lake Jordan Callbreath's experiment 2. From Skagway to Caribou Crossing Discovery of gold by Skookum Jim Fitting house to C viii 3 Contents PAGE carpet Argonauts of the White Pass Break- ing ice and rapids Soapy Smith and the avenger Tragic relics Perfect protection The grayling, "flower of fishes" Bishop Bompas - An exchange of bishops Poet blood The rule of law Carrie Nation in argument Steven- son Fellowship Jonson replaces R. L. S. 3. A French viewpoint "The Strength of Being Clean" Justice to one's afterself Alcohol a social menace General social hygiene Fighting the red plague Great scientists Tribute to Young "Out of the Church" With Roosevelt in Texas '"The Square Deal" A "man of the world"? 4. Empty victories Uninformed populace Witte and the Tsar Treaty finally concluded CHAPTER THIRTY-ONE 1 56 1. Distress intensified Marked characteristics - Unusual devotion Newcomer's sonnet 2. Europe again Down the Moselle and across to Dauphiny Glorious Chamonix Miirren and Berne Motoring Some of the Gren- villes "Collecting" cathedrals Judicial hu- mor End of a senseless feud "Danger ahead" Eclipse of the sun 3. "Guide to the Study of Fishes" Henry Holt Standing incentives to war Sleepless watch- dogs Passing of Don Luis From Franklin to Brooks CHAPTER THIRTY-TWO . 168 i. American Philosophical Society Catastrophic change Chaos in the home Damage at En- cina Hall One fatality At Roble Death of a faithful servant Enormous losses Cost of reconstruction Plans for reorganization Future of privately endowed institutions An indignant Chinese Agassiz "in the concrete" c ix 3 Contents PAGf- Philosophical interest Smithsonian offer Other proposals declined Classes disbanded Camping out Fatal coincidences Living on faith Greely and Funston A distracted bird A wedding midst the ruins An aston- ished visitor 2. Fashions in temblors Earthquake rifts From Mendocino to San Benito Rift of 1868 Lava dykes Shock instantaneous for 192 miles Surface manifestations Tomales Bay Olema Bolinas to San Andreas Valley Por- tola Buried men End of the rift An "Oriental school" Dishonest tactics Roose- velt's warning resented 3. Carnegie Foundation for the Improvement of Teaching Pritchett's proposal Funds ade- quate From pension to insurance Age limit at Stanford Improvement of English orthography Expecting too much Futile humor American game derived from Rugby with marked differences Professional coaches Temporary prohibition of American game Battle, not sport BOOK FIVE (1907-1914) CHAPTER THIRTY-THREE 199 1. A call to Australia Marie Hall Chess on the Moana A magic circle A traveled "wall- eye" Sharks and sharks Making merry Suva, capital of Fiji - - Fijians Quoy's paint- ing Marine illusions 2. Ruin wrought by cactus Other disastrous im- migrants - - Books about Australia Sydney acquaintances David Holme Filling vacancies in Australia Rutherford Lawless- ness at Capping Degrees for women Cheer- ful Capping - - Irreverence not uncommon - Rugby The Victoria game Track meets and tea C x 3 Contents PAGE 3. Colleagues in Ichthyology Sale of bogus degrees "The Japanese menace" Mis- guided patriotism - - Botany Bay Showy blossoms Sydney Harbor Fine merinos In time of drought 4. Essentials overlooked - - The McConnels and Edward Jordan CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR 218 1. Baldwin Spencer Welton Stanford Endow- ment for Psychology Coover and the Thomas Welton Stanford Fellowship Foundation of the Workingmen's College - - Giant eucalyptus Blacks' Spur forest Australian parrots The laughing jackass Not a poultry yard Primi- tive mammals A practical idealist --At Adelaide 2. English genius transplanted Away from "home" Huge unoccupied areas Lack of variety in Australia Homogeneous population and somber color Few "self-starters" The irreverent Sydney Bulletin "Government pays" 3. Wellington Sir Robert Stout University of New Zealand "Examining" and "teaching" universities Too much examination cheapens scholarship Undue sensitiveness Maclaurin Rutherford again, and Brown The Ferry Canterbury pioneers - - Brown trout and Loch Leven essentially the same New Zea- land forests Pelorus Jack 4. Imaginary returns A free pass Wanganui Auckland Fear of capitalism A noble tree Rotorua The charm of New Zealand Weakness a social menace Seddon The coddling-moth American enterprise 5. An International Commission of Zoology Prob- lems of zoological nomenclature The "first reviser" compromise Boston code of nomen- clature The Jordan Committee Life too Contents PAGE short Orthogenesis Law of Vertebrae Northern fishes develop more segments Quaint diversions Gains and losses CHAPTER THIRTY-FIVE 252 1. "Ei, ei, das Bier sehr mundet mir" A dry town The carven tables A courageous com- mittee Rigid ruling Meyer now strong for milk shake Self-government initiated Debt to Clark 2. International Fisheries Commission Bound- ary waters Rathbun's work Truly inter- national First setback Prince succeeds Bastedo Knox succeeds Root The Maine law Grand Menan The Thousand Islands To Gainesville A rich feeding ground The creeping pound nets A fine discovery Lake Huron Sault Ste. Marie Lake Supe- rior Rainy River and Lake of the Woods Unprotected sturgeon Kenora Winnipeg The gold eye A boundless wheat field Asul- kan Glacier Selous Salmon unequally dis- tributed In Puget Sound Nass River and the steelhead Prince Rupert Father Hogan Clan MacDonald and " Black Jack" Speedy reform First Legaie 3. Prince and Gisborne Bryce and Muir Fatal delay Appeals by constituents Spring-Rice Not a lobbyist Michigan fishery laws Treaties national only Unequal enforcement of law Study of Saginaw Bay "My Lady of the Snows" The sane Canadian boundary "Mild Reservations" Puget Sound Canada's refusal to confirm Present state of boundary fisheries A valid objection Staple species Important localities Salmonoid fishes of the Great Lakes A most useful volume Adee Provincialism What is a "Western" man? A new type of hearer Parental anxiety C xii 3 Contents PAGE 4. The ideal school of medicine Proprietary medical college Tolland and Cooper Trans- fer to Stanford Courses of study Faculty Dedication of Lane Library of Medicine CHAPTER THIRTY-SIX 284 1. The Darwin Centennial Moritz Wagner - "Raumliche Sonderung" Four nineteenth- century leaders Darwin and Lincoln Cell structure and cell function Natural selection Return to Darwin Back to Indiana Krehbiel Young liberals Crane A strange change 2. National Peace Congress Ginn and Mead New policy Last cost of war Jane Addams Fannie Fern Andrews 3. The Jordan Club McNair lectures Prag- matism Balfour and truth Haeckel's dog- matism Monism not a basis for science Source of all knowledge Fish Commissioner for California Eugenics Commission Large service to science At Arden Endowment of the Eugenics Commission 'Journal of Heredity 4. World Congresses Free Christianity at Berlin "War and Manhood" in the Kaiser's armory I "also spoke" Great and near-great Wilhelm Forster Eucken both moralist and militarist A German view Haeckel An academic gibe 5. At Gratz My social standing A polyglot commission Supper al fresco Tiresome pedantry The green land of Styria A "jolly-up" Fried and the Friedenswarte Bertha von Siittner " Waffen Nieder! " - - A congress never held Steindachner A scholar's fate CHAPTER THIRTY-SEVEN 312 i. Meran to Piz Languard Magenta Novara Selective breeding of cretins Cause of cretin- xiii Contents PAGE ism "No more of them" Carcassonne "I never went to Carcassonne" Our Lady of Lourdes The last hope "Guerie!" Cirque de Gavarnie and the Pyrenees "Main Street" overseas 2. Norman Angell "The Great Illusion" A masterful teacher Sometime a Californian Clear-cut analysis Ruyssen and Moch Riviere Majerieux Dumas Passy Scott and Upson Buisson D'Estournelles de Constant Hilton and Shelton Seeck Reversal of selection Waterloo La Fontaine Otlet, Lange, and Rossignol Geddes 3. The Red House, Hornton Street Hobson and Brunner Abbotsholme The Cotswolds Tintern Abbey - - Swansea passes Hoover at the wheel Tring Museum With Osier The negro problem My hopeful view Stead Men worth knowing The Nation staff Weardale Reform of the Peerage 4. Arming for peace and war The root of war The commission lapses Efforts for a world court Practical arbitration Elihu Root Wasted effort Scott Endowment for peace 5. Champ Clark on Wilson - - A notable address Campaigns for equal suffrage Taking respon- sibility seriously The absentee vote Open primary Jefferson The conduct of life Beacon Booklets Encina conferences CHAPTER THIRTY-EIGHT 349 1. Off for Japan once more At Honolulu An international courtesy Eager reporters A too generous program Tea with the Asanos Kuma Katsura Cabinet Saionji Ministry A Stanford dinner The Omoris - 'Yurin En" Huggins 2. An embarrassing situation Nikko revisited Jizos hard to count Campaign horses Twice- r. xiv 1 Contents PAGE told tales Count Okuma - - The Countess Bishop Harris -- Lectures in Tokyo Ume Tsuda A useful warning -- Misfits in inter- pretation Quick to catch a joke - - Unfair advantage The two Pucks Not unfriendly cartoons "Peace Medicine" 3. Sendai for a second time-- Hospitality without stint The Ozaki dinner The Ozakis them- selves The Ishii banquet - - Kaneko, Kato, and Zumoto Shibusawa The Shibusawa lunch- eon --An interesting conference Uneducated emigrants an obstacle Manchurian railway - Press perversions Terauchi Austerity and mirth A feudal tragedy Morinobu's life of lyeyasu The Okuma luncheon Iwasaki - Mitsu Bishi Club A talented hostess - - Im- proved status of women 4. The Emperor The Empress A beautiful bauble Fruitful discussions Ichihashi returns to Stanford The Yamamoto tea - At Zojoji temple Frederick Starr -- Prince Tokugawa Academic dinners A bad exemplar Tea with Okura Moon fete Bankers' Association dinner Mrs. Apcar Owston the naturalist Tanaka Ishikawa at Bergen No Michel Sars CHAPTER THIRTY-NINE 381 1. Japanese railways Comfortable security Nagoya The " H.C.L." A great compliment At Kyoto Kyoto's glories Good humor At Kobe Not pioneers - - Robert Young 2. The Land of Morning Calm Seoul - - Seoul Y. M. C. A. The Korean tongue The Yama- gata dinner Supper in native style Katha- rine Wambold The quaint old city Yang Ban Leopard eyes in Japanese art Fishes of Korea Curious reasoning Good and bad in Japanese occupation The "squeeze" -A C xv 3 Contents PAGE Korean school Korean temperament De- jected nobility Biological cause of Korea's failure as a nation 3. Uji and Otsu Delightful haven Lord li's dinner service Yokohama Boy Scouts Fare- well functions Denison More intimate courtesies Generous friendliness Sooth- sayer Takashima 4. Dark regions unexplored Heizvas account Pro-Japanese Anti-Japanese Centralized power obstructive Minhon Direction, not status China again in convulsion Wilder's gift At the San Francisco customs CHAPTER FORTY 407 1. Pleasant reunions Booker Washington and Du Bois Tuskegee Institute At Tulane Magdalena Bay scare Lodge Resolution A slander revived War scares and conscription Sandoval's statement D'Estournelles de Constant Macdonald Ida Tarbell Blanchard Lutoslavski The Bahai Gren- fell 2. Germany and the next war Der Staat - - Three fallacies Social Darwinism not Darwinian 3. A toast to Roosevelt Progressive revolt La Follette An honor declined Roosevelt's candidacy In Africa and Europe Military pomp The steam roller A political handi- cap Bitter defeat 4. A eugenic survey - - Krehbiel and Hill in Georgia Harvey Jordan Battle of Fredericksburg - Desolation of the plantation counties Conway Andrew Johnson Salem Church Chancellorsville - - Death of Jackson - - Spott- sylvania Court House The Bloody Angle Seven miles of wounded A week of horror 5. At Staunton General Anderson - - McNeal Appomattox Court House The last shot Contents PAGE The Chickahominy Cold Harbor - - Captain McCabe Petersburg At Raleigh Judge Clark Tait - - In the blue-grass region - Results of the Civil War Sherman - - Summing up CHAPTER FORTY-ONE 441 1. At Harvard - - Burton - - Borah "What Shall We Say?" At Ciudad Juarez-- A squalid conflict - - An impossible task - - Mexicali A gracious memorial - - Return to first love 2. Anti-Japanese agitation Japanese in Hawaii The gentlemen's agreement - - Florin - Bryan at Sacramento - - Effect on Japanese politics Zumoto's reprimand Guarding the frontier 3. Brownell - -The playwright's dilemma - National Editorial Service -- "What of the Nation ? " Morocco - - The Big D's - - Bankers and shipping trusts for peace 4. A resourceful adviser My new relation - President Branner A dazed audience CHAPTER FORTY-TWO 460 1. The Red House again- -The Eugenics Educa- tion Society An unexpected argument - Peace organizations - - Freedom of the seas Too busy for hospitality Charles Wagner - Noble spirits - - Notable humanism - - Gloomy close to a luminous life 2. Lawrence Irving - - Ponsonby - - Emily Hob- house 'Olive Schreiner No nullification of crime Leonard Hobhouse - - Fels - - Kropot- kin A charming Californian - - A consistent journal A breezy diplomat Lima 3. Dickinson, Wallas, and Russell Museum ex- perts -- Geikie and Saleeby National Welfare Association Unwin and Gardiner Welby - C xv " 3 Contents PAGE Brailsford Buxton Ferris Wasted talent Ramsay McDonald Trevelyan Mrs. Snowden Neilson 4. Lloyd George's "malice" -A weary candidate Westminster Leonard Courtney Saga- cious epigrams - - Asquith Lloyd George Grey Churchill Cecil Carson's back fire Coalitions versus principles Hoover's opinions 5. A half century of loss Jordan in Devon In Dartmoor Cold hearthstones - - Deandon and Sir William Good maxims Jordan migration Some American Jordans A missing link Hall's Croft, Stratford A delightful surprise CHAPTER FORTY-THREE 492 i. A congress of schoolmen Teachers in distress A primer of democracy Collapse of "blood and iron" Han-sur-Lesse Strayed fishes Sedan --Ghastly reminders 2. The Hague Peace Conference Korff - - The Slaydens and Schlumbergers Woerden French against Dutch --Gobat Giesswein A superb work of art Dollo Napoleon in Hell 3. Guerard An admirable work -- Growing re- sentment Demand for home rule Metz Interviewing editors -- Lorraine one with Alsace Boll Mandel - - At Colmar Wetterle Oncle Hansi "Story of Alsace" "My Village" Near-treason Futile gestures A difficult task Zislin Two views of ownership A study in conquest Gross brutalities New embarrassments CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR S 12 i. On the Wallensee - - Le Touquet "Quand Meme" "Mireille" Morel Sieper Warden xviii ] Contents PAGE 2. Envious Kleinbasel The little land of Liech- tenstein Worthy efforts --John Mez - - The law of nations - - Nippold - - Nippold's warnings - Lammasch - - Leading German pacifists - Noble plea of a French orator-- A German Liberal 3. Activity in emigration - - Arco - - Lovely Dal- matia -- A blend of beauty - - Delightful excur- sions The olive and the olive fly - - Cattaro - Tiny Cettinje - - An independent race - - A world beyond - - Hard to resist - - An idle demonstra- tion -- Scant accommodations A pleasant ren- counter A friend of Bulgaria - - Some tribes of Albania - - Known by his fez --Albanian ethics The vendetta - - Trust in princes Mag- nificent views CHAPTER FORTY-FIVE 535 1. A brave disciple --At Wiesbaden-- A true in- dictment - - Unexpected reaction Weddegen - Silent citizenship - - Hall of Echoes - - The historic Schwann - - De Neufville - - Forceful women Social Darwinism in action - - Schiick- ing The marcke-route press 2. Graham Van Wyck Brooks -- Oppenheim - Poulton--Sir Oliver Lodge -- Nice points of language Graham Kerr- 'Tusitala in Samoa" - Sir Daniel - - A noted bookman Donaldson of St. Andrews - - With the Fergussons A wel- come reunion - - Dundee slums Arthur Thom- son Beaten paths to education - - Manchester and its Guardian The Norman Angell Society - Charles Rowley Brandes Liverpool - Herringham and the University of London Kate Stevens 3. Parson Umfrid Munich - - Friends from home Quidde and Caligula - - The glory that was Greece Approach of war Schemes of Pan- germany Military necessities A too favored land France as a vassal of Prussia C Contents PAGE CHAPTER FORTY-SIX 557 1. Genoa and the Sunset Shore La Grande Cor- niche Eze and La Turbie Monte Carlo, Monaco Hyeres Frejus The golden cornice of the Esterel Cannes On the Kleist to Colombo Koerner Naples Scylla and Charybdis Port Said The Red Sea Djidda Aden Somaliland Kandy Col- lecting sea snails A marvel of plant growth - A marvel of credulity Not to be shaken off University of Perth Australian Blacks 2. Revisiting Welton Stanford In the Australian Alps Melbourne friends Absent colleagues Baseless fear A heroic figure The Ander- sons of Sydney National characteristics A waterspout --At the Pyramids Nostalgia CHAPTER FORTY-SEVEN 572 1. Holman - - In Croatia The Iron Gate - Turnu-Severin, Samovet, and Plevna Mark- ham - - Scholarship and orthodoxy Sofia Prophets not without honor The Bulgarian parliament Malinoff Bulgaria's evil genius - Radoslavoff Robert College graduates The first Balkan war Bulgarian blunders A degree of palliation Markham's plan 2. Good advice not officially heeded A touching appreciation FurnajiefFs misadventures Queen Eleanora The queen's purposes Hard luck Carmen Sylva Dobruja and Ka- vala Bulgarian sour milk Vatralsky >A scholar's table Local urge for federation 3. The queen's automobile In Samokov >A disappointed host War ravages Dzumaia Turkish graveyards The lilac at home Sandansky and Miss Stone Petritch An un- happy community Powerlessness of great powers A lost American An irate officer The Bistritza Tyranny of the frontier Contents PAGE CHAPTER FORTY-EIGHT 594 1. A certificate of character- - Raikovska -- A truthful proverb Legitimate doubts Lot of the soldier-- A suggestive incident Looking "pleasant" - Our enthusiastic friend A state carriage-- Atrocities at Sidero Castro -- Primi- tive accommodations The donkey and the camel train The lot of the refugee - - Easily won gratitude - - Enthusiastically American "Thessalonike" Albanians in Thrace Refu- . gees from Thrace Race evictions John Henry House-- A pest-ridden station 2. Kavala Its Roman aqueduct-- A native ex- quisite Certain extenuations The old story of enforced order - - Dedeagatsch Two ways of thinking Robert College Panaretoff Perils of chemical formulas - - Woman's College - Magnificence and dirt The fate of the dogs - Morgenthau - - Creating public opinion - - The New Turks 3. Tcheraz San Stefano and Berlin Smyrna A dream of the eyes - - In Athens - - Patras to Naples A haven of refuge - - Unwelcome visions Avignon and Les Baux CHAPTER FORTY-NINE 615 1. An official conference Need of immune journalism - - Richet - - Junkets in Britain - AngelPs summer school The incomparable Chesterton 2. Dublin - - Plunkett and Russell Effect of half measures - - Prosperity in Ireland - - Rule of Dublin Castle Men learn by trying Aristo- cratic views An embittering contrast Busy Belfast Ulster must remain Irish The Orange and the Green - - Reasonable Ulstermen Gun-running Carson and the Kaiser Ulster disapproval Political vicissitudes C xxi 3 Contents PAGE The Kaiser both going and coming Siege of Derry Tyrone in Ulster "Best elements" opposed to home rule - - Effects of poverty - Ireland's weakness - - Changing winds The Royal Commission Way to peace BOOK SIX (1914-1921) CHAPTER FIFTY 633 1. The Sarajevo murder The case of Serbia Jaures Invasion of Belgium -- A bootless task Change in British feeling Cabinet resigna- tions Lichnowsky - - A gentleman deceived Ground lost --Grey's error 2. Germany's statement The British version - Taking the odium - - A gift, not a loan Viola- tions of recognized codes - - Mistaken view of America Appeal to Carnegie Endowment Stranded tourists - - Hoover and the C. R. B. - Wrath, not fear A bold lie The Russian myth Circumstantial evidence- -The Liberal Club - - War has right of way Sieper The two Germanys 3. Our plea - - Peace a lost cause - - Time to oppose war --America as a City of Refuge lona Knight Our duty as I saw it - - The armament makers Half-hearted advocacy A vigorous thesis --At the Boston Economic Club Dr. Albert Special pleading Oppenheim's letter A closed discussion 4. Morris Jastrow The Manifesto of the Ninety- three Intellectuals - - Fulda's alarm Weh- berg's investigations Misgivings - -The Ger- man position Seeck's view Assertions of Leonhard Fried's summing up CHAPTER FIFTY-ONE 662 i. Through Texas -^ For Belgian relief The Lusitania Can peace be enforced ? Estes Contents PAGE Park N. E. A. for 1915 - - The Buissons - "Ways to Lasting Peace" Insurance peace congress Energetic preparation Kingsley "Insurance against War" A change of heart The joint congress Cousin Harvey again 2. Van Beek en Donk "Annexation and Con- quest" The Minimum Program Neutrality impossible Secret treaties and other iniquities La course vers 1'abime A plan for media- tion Urge toward war Converting America 3. Jane Addams and European chancelleries The Woman's Peace Party Continuous mediation The only solution America's leadership Christmas a time for peace Facts not to be concealed Colonel House "A long shot" Boardman lecture The Oscar II - - Rosika Schwimmer Emotional oratory "Out of the trenches by Christmas" More than slo- gans needed Publicity versus patience Some of the Crusaders An Unofficial Com- mission of Mediation CHAPTER FIFTY-TWO 686 1. Ways of Pangermany Two theories of loyalty "The Two Germanys" Sir Francis Webster Inspiration from Scotland An agent of Germany President Lovett Julian Huxley 2. Stormy outlook in Mexico Storey and Kellogg Rojas and his colleagues Alarming condi- tions The Columbus raid El Paso "holo- caust" Villa's threat Carrizal Populace inflamed McNary Another scrap of paper? "El capitan encantado" "Stabilizing" concessions - - Shearers and shorn Call to Al- buquerque Appeal for a breathing space Steffens Fair but unacceptable Virtues of conference Watchful waiting Honorable concessionaires Colonel Burns Violence again urged Contents PAGE 3. N. E. A. in New York Taft defends the League to Enforce Peace A plea for Natural History An extended campaign A noted sanitarian Trevelyan's letter Genera of fishes Fossil fishes A Miocene tragedy Ancestors of living fishes Unique and amazing! CHAPTER FIFTY-THREE 712 1. Wilson's efforts for peace Diver campaign - Imperative demand for war Willful Senators Emergency Peace Federation Fall of Rus- sian autocracy At Columbia Thoughtful deliberations 'A Joint High Commission A League of Neutrals Madison Square Garden meeting Journalistic amenities Magnes War prosperity a grim joke --Arguments for joining the Allies Wall Street and war Menace of triumphant hordes One motive for compulsory training 2. At Princeton Evans Clark Garrison and the Junkers -- Allinson In Boston At Yale - Phelps and the merry gentlemen Patten, University of Pennsylvania -- First recorded peace commission - - Miss Detrick Student pacifists " Patriotic " rowdyism For law and order Incongruous hymns Interested instigation Two programs - - The Bannwaert episode Visitors from Baltimore -- Good Po- licing Unpleasant neighbors The Presi- dent's decision - - Two points of view Oppos- ing sides of the shield - - Breathless campaign Another forlorn hope Varying dilemmas My statement - - Successive repulses CHAPTER FIFTY-FOUR 737 i. East again Forebodings in Wall Street The People's Council An unwelcome distinction Appeal to the press In San Francisco A plain statement Need for definition New C xxiv 3 Contents PAGE form of University Extension - - Jeannette Rankin My own view The President de- fines our aims Hope for rational peace 2. Stanford's war losses James Fergusson Clifford Kimber - - In New York - - Harold Aup- perle Pellissier Beaseley 3. Stockholm conference "The Root of the Evil " " Pangermany " Rhin et Moselle A period of humiliation - - Superheated patriot- ism a product of war 4. Thursday evening conferences- "Democracy and World Relations" -The Fourteen Points Necessary foundation of civilization How I appear to critics -- Ferdinand's fall Too late! Holland as mediator The vocation of Holland? Autocracy incompatible with civilization 5. Not Victory but Liberation Hopes dashed Healing by first intention Gambetta's ob- servation The Paris Conference - - Lloyd George as politician Wilson's noble ambition CHAPTER FIFTY-FIVE 761 1. Spirit of the League Covenant and Treaty Mild reservations suggested Reasons for failure to ratify A Council of Civilization 2. Herron's tribute Fried tells the story Fernau 3. Klyce's "Universe" "Oneness" not neces- sarily "sameness" A priori reasoning-- Sci- ences exact and inexact Livableness --My view of prayer - - Prayer the core of endeavor 4. Indiana University pageant At Cornell Albert Smith A study of Lincoln - - Demo- cratic National Convention Senator Owen The people's choice President Harding 5. Threescore years and ten A conspiracy of affection Old students entertain the "Old Guard" Benediction C xxv 3 Contents APPENDIXES: PAGE A. To David Starr Jordan, January 19, 1911 783 B. The Stability of Truth (191 1) 787 C. Relation of the University to Medicine . 791 D. In the Wilderness 794 E. Krieg und Mannheit 799 F. The Balkans 806 G. To the Scholars, Writers, and Artists of Great Britain and Germany 810 H. Joint Telegram to Wilson and Carranza, July 4, 1916 812 I. The Passing of Don Luis 813 J. The "Holocaust" at El Paso, March 6, 1916. . . 817 K. Letter to Senator Dresselhuys 821 L. Lammasch's Efforts for Peace 825 M. A Few Tributes on the Author's Seventieth Birthday 827 N. Poetic Play among Friends and More of the Author's Philosophy 833 INDEX . 845 C xxvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Portrait of David Starr Jordan, 1921 Frontispiece OPPOSITE PAGE Street in Enoshima 18 "Kojigoku" at Unzen 26 Ainu Village near Sapporo; Ainus at Sapporo 56 Barbara Jordan, 1900 84 Kilauea in Eruption; Cold Lava Flow, Kilauea .... 88 Among the Tree Ferns 100 Lake Lanuto 106 Wreck of the "Adler" and Sister Ships no Mud Skippy in Mangrove Tree, Tutuila 116 Zoology Building, Now Jordan Hall; North End of Inner Quad 134 Naha River, Alaska, Outlet of Lake Jordan 138 Whale Attacked by Killers off Santa Cruz; Salmon Leap- ing Waterfall 144 Jane Lathrop Stanford 156 La Meije, Dauphine; La Grande Ruine 162 Stanford Church after the Earthquake, 1906; "Agassiz in the Concrete" 174 Facade of Restored Outer Quadrangle, Stanford Univer- sity, 1909 184 Chemistry Building Seen through Arch; Facade of Church 192 Whale Stranded off San Francisco 202 Hugo de Vries; Anton Dohrn; T. W. Edgeworth David; Leonhard Stejneger 208 The Hospitable Reptile. From "Eric's Book of Beasts" 250 David Starr Jordan and Eric Knight Jordan, 1908 . . . 256 Some Members of the Jordan Club 294 Bertha von Suttner; Kakichi Mitsukuri 308 Carcassonne, Near View; Carcassonne from the River 316 Frederic Passy; Ernst Heinrich Haeckel 322 Theodore Ruyssen; Henri La Fontaine 326 Alfred H. Fried; John Mez; Norman Angell; Francis W. Hirst 340 Jizos at Gamman, near Nikko 356 C xxvii List of Illustrations OPPOSITE PAGE Cartoon in Osaka "Puck," 1911 362 Viscount Eiichi Shibusawa; Viscountess Shibusawa . . 370 Koreans with Loaded Ox, Seoul; Suigen Gate 390 Garden of Raku-raku-en; Raku-raku-en 398 Japanese Boy Scouts, Yokohama 402 Jessie Knight Jordan, 1911 412 Felix Moscheles; Courtney of Penwith 480 Jordan in Devon; Clovelly 488 "Quand Meme," Belfort; Statue of Strassbourg, Place de la Concorde, Paris 514 Arco, 1677; Arco, 1913 522 Ragusa 526 Cattaro and the Montenegrin Frontier; "Souvenir of Montenegro," 1914 530 Harvey Ernest Jordan; J. Arthur Thomson 548 Greek Priest from Rilo Monastery; Burned Mill at Rilo 586 Frontier Bridge, Bistritza River; Ruins in Burned Petritch 592 En Route from the Bistritza to Demir Hissar; Greek Troops at Christos Aneste Hellas; Camel Train Led by Donkey, Demir Hissar 598 Greek Refugees from Thrace, Demir Hissar; Montenegrin Guard, Robert College 602 Robert College, Constantinople 608 Charles Richet; Heinrich Lammasch 616 George Russell ("A. E."); Sir Horace Plunkett ... 628 Admiral Austin M. Knight, U. S. N 648 Knight Starr Jordan, 1918; Eric Knight Jordan, 1920 . 652 Jenkin Lloyd Jones; Jane Addams 684 Arthur Clifford Kimber; James Grant Fergusson; Harold Vincent Aupperle 746 Extract from Contribution by Author to Rhin et Moselle 750 Bust of David Starr Jordan, 1921 774 Stanford University from the Air, 1921 778 xxv BOOK FOUR 1900-1906 The Days of a Man 1900 document on the back of a menu card. This my colleagues signed and, thus prepared, it still remains practically unchanged. Annual meetings are regu- larly held at one or another university. Each sends as many delegates as it pleases, though having but one vote; at the same time all resolutions are advisory only, so as not to limit the free action of any institu- tion within the group. In a small way, the make-up of the association and its relation to colleges generally bear a strong resemblance to that proposed for the 'League of Nations." The 'Big Fourteen" group of 1900 has since increased to about thirty. The charter members were: California Johns Hopkins Catholic University Michigan Chicago Princeton Clark Stanford Columbia Virginia Cornell Wisconsin Harvard Yale At a meeting held at Yale, President Arthur Twin- ing Hadley read a scholarly paper on the organization EHot on of the medieval university. In the discussion which medieval- followed, Dr. Eliot (with a clear-cut audacity we younger men could not venture to emulate) rose to say that ''the American university has nothing to learn from medieval universities, nor yet from those still in the medieval period." I shall now touch briefly on a painful and trying episode which, originating in September, 1896, be- came gradually critical during the next four years. If the matter concerned only myself and my own shortcomings, temperamental or otherwise, I should C 2 3 ism 19003 An Unusual Situation gladly pass it by, heeding Elbert Hubbard's advice: ' Never explain; your friends don't need it and your enemies won't believe you anyhow." In this particular case, however, 1 had a double problem - - on the one hand to shield the University f rmed r r i ..... . criticism from uninformed or unsympathetic criticism such as then beset the University of Chicago, and on the other to protect the reputation of a young professor from the natural consequences of his indiscreet adven- tures in thorny paths of partisan politics. I failed in both efforts; but the complex situation can be fairly judged by no one unfamiliar with the details of our 'Long Fight," during which almost every other consideration was necessarily subordinated to the one prime duty of saving the endowment for higher education. Founder, president, and professors then worked as members of a cooperating family rather than as university officials. Yet I am bound to declare, and beyond all possi- bility of denial, that Mrs. Stanford did not at any time or in any way step outside her right and duty as trustee of the University; also, that in her opinions and judgment she was guided solely by what she correctly interpreted to be the letter and spirit of the governing statutes as clearly laid down at the outset. Above all, I must again affirm that no one has now or ever had a particle of evidence to show that "Money Power," "the Interests," or "the Repub- lican Machine" influenced her in the least. Her frequently expressed resolve never to concern her- self "with the religion, politics, or love affairs of any professor" she faithfully kept. C 3 The Days of a Man [1900 The summer of this year was marked by two out- standing features - - the most interesting and instruc- tive of all my scientific excursions, and the most cruel personal calamity we have ever experienced, the sudden death just before my return home of our beloved daughter Barbara. The first was my ex- ploration of Japan, made possible by Mr. Hopkins, who again came generously to my aid by arranging to send Snyder with me as associate. Fishing in In the course of the summer we visited every japan promising stream and fishing station from Nagasaki and Obama on the island of Kyushyu in the south to Mororan and Otaru in the northern island of Hok- kaido. In many of these places white men were almost unknown, as it was only a few weeks after the abolition of the passport system, which immediately followed the turning over by the Powers to Japanese jurisdiction of the foreign concessions in the "Treaty Ports" Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, Hakodate, and Niigata. As a result ot our work we brought home about one thousand species, nearly two hundred of them new to science - - a mass larger than all previous collections put together and forming the material for numerous papers by myself and my colleagues. In all our operations we had the thorough sympa- thy and unfailing help of Dr. Mitsukuri, one of my associates in the Fur Seal Investigation, and the ablest of Japanese men of science. 1 Referring to the torii, or Shinto temple gates placed before forests which must not be felled, Mitsukuri said that "it See Vol. I, Chapter xxm, pages 602 and 605 C 4 3 Japanese Intelligence and Courtesy could not be a bad religion that saved the trees"! He moreover assured me that Japan was a civilized country; that in any village we should find the people possessed of an intelligent knowledge of what we were trying to do, and willing and eager to help us. This statement was literally true. As I have said, we visited many villages where foreigners were vir- tually unknown, and yet everywhere we met not only courtesy but entire understanding. All towns of 10,000 people or more had a natural history museum, and usually an art gallery as well. The museums turned over their fishes to us without hesi- tation, for "they would be able to get more and we might not." Going out, we reached Honolulu the very day (June 14) on which Hawaii, already nominally an- tion /. nexed * to the United States, was organized as a territory an occasion remarkable for the enthusi- asm displayed by the foreign residents, especially the sugar planters, and the futile though temporary lamentation of the natives. During our short stop-over we drove up to the The Nuuanu Pali, the almost vertical rim of an ancient N and gigantic crater half of which has been torn away by the sea. From there the westward view down over vivid green sugar-cane fields 2 and dusky jungles of guava to the blue ocean some miles away is one of the fairest in all my range of travel. Nevertheless, one can hardly fail to recall the fact that a bloody catastrophe was once staged on the Pali, when Kame- 1 Annexation released great numbers of Japanese from serfdom to the sugar corporations, bringing many of them to Honolulu. There they soon monopo- lized certain trades, ultimately the fisheries as well; and some thousands came at once to California, where their presence has created both political and social complications not yet resolved. 2 Now (1920) mostly replaced by gray-green plantations of pineapple. C 5 3 The Days of a Man 1900 hameha the Great, King of Hawaii, drove the people of Oahu over the cliff and down to their death on the rocks a thousand feet below. First im- It was on a sullen, drizzly day (June 24) that we had our fi rs t glimpse of Japan. Entering the harbor of Yokohama, we looked down on warm, sloppy water full of white jellyfish; on either side appeared low shores, dimly seen, backed by dark pines, and in the foreground brick warehouses and gray hotels. At the wharf jinrikisha men waited with their little vehicles, called in Japanese kuruma, "wheel," while all about swarmed the people in costumes familiar from Japanese lanterns and fans. Selecting my man, I gave at once the magic order, " Sakana; ichi ba" ("Fish; market-place"), and off we sped through the foreign concession by way of well- kept streets lined with English-looking brick houses, a green cricket field and a pretty park, then over rough and narrow lanes to our destination. The great market consisted of open stalls, the dealers squatting above their wares, a generous variety of fish in baskets or alive in troughs of water. Among them was a huge swordfish, a species never before recorded from Japan; this, like the black-tailed sole at San Diego, 1 we regarded as a good omen. As I went on a round of inspection, one young lad, appar- ently much impressed, gave my leg a polite pinch and shouted as he ran away: "He's real, he's real!" Having satisfied my first curiosity, I was next impressed by the variety in men's costume, anything from a towel to flowing robes of silk seeming to serve the purpose. Especially conspicuous were the large 1 See Vol. I, Chapter ix, page 203. C 6 3 19003 jfapanese Dress letters or ideographs on the backs of workmen's blouses, mostly red in a white circle, the garment itself being generally blue. Dress in Japan, as we afterward discovered, is a matter of status, not of choice. Every man, as a rule, had his clothes shaped for him centuries ago, a matter to which I may again refer. But the more striking types tend to disappear, to be replaced by what men choose for themselves, or care to pay for. In European costume, rare at the time of my first visit, the women look taller, less refined, more compe- tent, more aggressive, and less attractive than in native garb. The man becomes shorter, homelier, and relatively insignificant in European clothes. Among the remarkable costumes are those of men- dicant musicians who bear on the head a tall or broad basket with slits in front of the face, and go piping from house to house. One pilgrim girl we saw at Nagasaki had a huge hat two feet or more across and trimmed with green cloth. After a few hours in Yokohama we went on to Tokyo for a very brief stay before setting out on our mission. But certain matters detained us there un- expectedly long. Our first necessity was to find Stanford among the Stanford group some one who could go hclpe about with us as secretary-interpreter. In this we were especially fortunate, securing for the first half of the summer Keidichi Abe, a native of Sendai, and for the second half, Keinosuke Otaki, one of my students in Zoology. 1 Japanese youths at Stanford for the first sixteen years were nearly all of the impoverished samurai (feudal retainer) class who had worked their way 1 See page 17 for note on pronunciation of Japanese. c 7 n vers The Days of a Man 1900 upward by sheer energy and persistence. They were students _ older than most of their fellow-students older in- in America . . . . i i T deed sometimes than appearance would indicate and they were often disposed to look down on the rather careless American lads who took their oppor- tunities more lightly. Probably most of them had been directed to the United States by missionaries. Returning to Japan, they often acquired large influ- ence as teachers or officials in provincial towns. Political posts in Tokyo, however, were rarely offered to any educated in America or England, for such were almost sure to.be infected by "dangerous ideas"; and graduates of the excellent Imperial University were always preferred by the Genro or "Elder States- men," representatives for the most part of the "fighting clans," Satsuma and Choshu, 1 who led in public affairs. This condition American graduates were disposed to resent, although ineffectively. There can be no doubt, however, that their atti- tude has been a large factor in quieting the war spirit so easily aroused against America by water- front agitators or unscrupulous militarists. Effect of Since the Root-Takahira pact of 1907, first called me n n's~ b Y Wil1 Irwin " the Gentlemen's Agreement," the Agree- character of the Japanese student body in America has considerably changed. For no one of them is allowed to leave Japan without evidence of means to pay all his expenses for four years. Thus many who would like to enter American institutions are held back, and while the Stanford group still runs from twenty-five to thirty, its members now belong mainly to the well-to-do classes, and they have in general better preparation than their predecessors. As a rule, 1 Satsuma is the center of naval influence; Choshu stands for the army. 1900] Samurai Persistence however, any Asiatic student who finds his way over- seas is "one of a thousand," a person of superior ambition. In recent years American-born Japanese girls as well as boys have begun to enter our colleges; these are thoroughly "assimilated," sometimes know- ing little or nothing of the old mother tongue or of native Japanese customs. Abe's experiences were interesting and typical of Abe's samurai persistence. At twenty, not knowing a word adventurej of English, he left San Francisco bearing a placard, "Send this man to Denver." There he became in turn farm laborer, railway section hand, and appren- tice to the trade of rubber cutting. From Denver he went on to Peoria, thence to Arkansas where he worked as railway gateman. Stricken with malaria, he now returned to Illinois; growing profoundly discouraged, however, he was tempted, he said, "to curse God and die." But pulling himself together he went back to Colorado to work for a time as a cowboy, meanwhile studying English with a friendly judge, who advised him to enter school at once. Dr. James H. Baker, principal of the Denver High School (later president of the University of Colorado), then helped him to pay his way and finish his course by the sale of Navajo blankets. In 1894 he entered the Univer- sity of Chicago, but finding the climate unfavorable, started for California with only ten dollars, and by ''beating it" through on the trains, arrived with a margin of fifty cents. At Stanford he served as 'cook in Gilbert's family. On receiving his degree in 1898, he returned to Japan, to become clerk in a Tokyo steamship office. Now we found him, at the age of thirty-four, married and relatively prosperous, a magazine writer and advocate of rigorous moral C9 : The Days of a Man 1900 standards for his people and of a drastic reform of the geisha system. But although apparently in sound health at that time, he died not many years after our visit. otaki Otaki was one of the two Japanese students who entered Stanford the first year, during which he and Sadonosuke Kokubo, his classmate, served my family as cook and second boy. " Graduating in Zo- ology, he became a temporary field assistant to the United States Fish Commission on the Columbia River. An eloquent speaker in his own language, and much interested in educational problems, at the time of our visit he was teaching English in the Imperial Military Academy of Tokyo. There he trained Japanese youth in thought and literary style, his principal text being the essays of Herbert Spencer. Afterward he became professor of Ichthyology in the provincial University of Sapporo, writing a series of popular essays on the fishes of Japan. But in a tramway wreck he received injuries from which he died in 1910. Asodai One afternoon I ventured to make a call at his modest home, a slight breach, perhaps, of conven- tional etiquette. He was absent, but his mild, motherly wife (who could not escape) bowed three times to the ground in extreme deference. I then presented my card. This being meaningless to her, I walked boldly into the tiny house, which contained three exquisite rooms with sliding panels, besides a sort of kitchen - - a brick alcove about a yard square. In the "library" I found two small shelves of Ameri- can books; on the center stool lay a copy of 'The Book of Knight and Barbara," which I pointed out to the little lady. It then flashed upon her who the C 10 : 1900] A Modest Home invader must be, and she brought forth in triumph one of my photographs. This the two kuruma men pronounced a good likeness. A meek tot of one year easily made friends, but "Knight" Otaki, then about three, ran out and hid behind a cherry tree. I caught him, however, and brought him in, which everybody thought a great joke. Finally, after numerous bows and attempts at foreign handshaking, they let me go. The home was very pretty, but its simplicity and enforced econo- mies seemed pathetic; a scholar cannot work under such limiting conditions. On one of the tiny lacquer stands I noticed the unfinished draft of Otaki's wel- come to his "dear teacher," to be delivered at the banquet given me that evening by the Stanford alumni, a speech earnest and heartfelt but with large traces of Japanese idiom. In front of the house was a dainty garden, includ- ing one flowering cherry and a native palm. It is a charming feature of Japan that no home is complete without a garden, however small. In a humble Tokyo dwelling I saw one in a lacquered tray two feet square, with rocks, paths, pagodas, pools made of glass, green moss for grass, dwarf pines, maples, and palms, none of them over six or eight inches in height. The dinner arranged for me by the Stanford boys Din was served, at my suggestion, in Japanese style. J a P naisc Then, before we separated, a Stanford Alumni Association was blocked out, and various pertinent matters came up for discussion. Among them was that of the standing of Japanese students at Stanford, it being the general opinion that the professors were C ii U nner a The Days of a Man [1900 too lenient with them on account of their imperfect knowledge of English. The new association therefore resolved to ask our faculty to exact from Japanese the same standards as from the others. It was also arranged that questions of admission to Stanford from Japanese secondary schools should be referred to a committee who would undertake the investiga- tion necessary to fix the status of any institution. Present that evening was D. Brainerd Spooner, Stanford '99, a student in Philology then resident in Tokyo, where he acted as secretary to the Minister of Siam, exchanging instruction in English for similar lessons in Siamese. Spooner and James F. Abbott, his classmate, who will appear in later pages, entered the Imperial University of Tokyo for graduate work in 1901, the first non-Asiatics to be admitted to that institution. This move at once aroused some clamor among the students, who maintained that the national university was for Japanese alone. The professors, however, made the foreigners welcome and soon quieted criticism. Mitsukuri even looked farther, writing to me especially to express his regret that our men remained for a term only, as he wished to establish the principle of an open door in higher education. Spooner, a tireless and erudite student of Sanskrit and other Oriental lore, has been now for years an official of the British government in charge of archeological surveys in India, in the course of which he brought to light the famous crystal vase which still held the finger bones of Buddha. As a sequel to the dinner we were invited to an interesting excursion arranged jointly by the gradu- ates of Stanford and the University of California, the professors in Biology at the Imperial University - C 12 ] Japanese Biologists Mitsukuri, Isao lijima, Sho Watase, Chiyomatsu Ishikawa, K. Kishinouye, and H. Nakagawa-- being also included as guests. Dr. lijima, after Mitsukuri the leading naturalist of Japan, and also his lifelong associate and friend, was a student of Edward S. Morse. 1 Watase, a morphologist who had worked under Brooks at Johns Hopkins, was for some time professor in the University of Chicago. Ishikawa had written an important memoir on the fishes of Lake Biwa, Kishinouye was a fishery expert, Naka- gawa a student of insects. Our trip led to the Tamagawa or "Jewel" River, Cormorant a clear, swift stream with wide flood-plain of coarse gravel, where fishing by cormorants is made a specialty. Four birds, each with a harness about its body and a rubber band at the base of the neck to keep it from swallowing the catch, showed amazing skill at their trade. Two boys drew a low net along the river to drive the fish ahead, while the cormo- rants, led by a third lad, swam in front, diving for prey. When a bird's pouch filled up he was shaken over a basket, and thus disgorged with little cere- mony. Watching the process, Mitsukuri said: "You can see by the looks of that cormorant how Japan felt when she was made to give up Port Arthur." 1 lijima was not only a morphologist of high rank, but an outdoor naturalist as well, and a noted popularizer of science. Near the Misaki Seaside Laboratory where he spent his summers are the great ocean depths of Okinose four miles from which Kuma Aoki, his man, brought him the rarest of glass-sponges, on which wonderful but little-known group he was the chief authority. Of them he described many new forms, even new families, in a region where, in the words of Dr. Bashford Dean, "Nature seemed to have taken many pains to keep them alive in an early geological garden." His death occurred in 1920. It was at lijima's initiative that means were devised to force the pearl oyster to produce "culture pearls" by artificial irritation of the mantle or out- side skin under the shell. These globules, often very beautiful, are now well known in commerce. In substance they are the same as true pearls, the latter being the result of intrusion by minute parasitic worms. C 13 H The Days of a Man 1900 But the birds are wholly devoted to their duties and rush at the fish with the eagerness of a retriever. They dislike strangers, however, croaking hoarsely at them. A general Fishing over, the ayu, a species of yellow trout Plecoglossus - - were saved for our feast, while the minnows and sculpins were thrown back to the birds, which gulped them with exuberant delight. Among the species secured that day was one dace new to science, which we named Leuciscus phalacrocorax for its captor - - Phalacrocorax. I was interested to notice native in the river bed an abundance of the day lily - - Hemerocallis fulva - - common in old- fashioned gardens in America. Returning to the city, we passed two beautiful Shinto temples, and near them was a monument so old that no one in the party could read its inscrip- tions. Meanwhile the skylarks sang in the open, and Japanese crows, most sarcastic of birds, jeered at us from the trees. Next day Mitsukuri hired a fishing boat in which we tried our luck with the rest of the fleet in Tokyo Bay. We caught very little, however, though we The did as well as the others. On an island in the harbor for"*"* stands an ancient fort as fantastically shaped as a negligible modern dreadnought. 'With that," said our host, "old Japan tried to shut out Western civilization." But civilization ignored the fortress as negligible, entering the country not by force of arms but by trade and education each in itself a form of brotherhood. At Mitsukuri's request I spoke without interpreter to the advanced students of the Imperial University, on Agassiz as a teacher. My audience gave appar- 19003 Courteous Entertainment ently the closest attention, though I felt increasingly sure that not one out of twenty understood, which was in fact the case. All of them had a good reading knowledge of English, but as a spoken language it was quite unfamiliar. A formal luncheon was afterward given me in the Mitsukuri beautiful garden of the Imperial University by Dr. and (Baron) Dairoku Kikuchi, its distinguished president, a fine historical scholar and graduate of Cambridge, whose honored career later included the headship of Public Instruction for Japan, the presidency of the newly established Imperial University of Kyoto, and finally Privy Councilorship to the Mikados, Mutsuhito and Yoshihito, up to about 1915, when his death took place. Kikuchi and Mitsukuri were own brothers, the difference in surname said to be due to the for- mer's early adoption by another family. Kikuchi spoke English perfectly and with eloquence. At the luncheon I met nearly all the members of the Uni- versity faculty, but Lafcadio Hearn, whom I espe- cially regretted to miss, was not present. Still another function was the dinner given in my Dinner at honor at the Koyokan (Maple Club) by Shiro Fujita, ^e Maple Mitsukuri's associate on the Fur Seal Commission. This was an especially enjoyable affair in elaborate Japanese style, the menu being interspersed with various songs and interpretive " dances." Among the guests were Alfred E. Buck, United States Min- ister to Japan, President Kikuchi, and my friends of the University College of Science. In a lucid interval between functions, Snyder and I made a short raid into the old province of Hitachi to the northeast of Musashi, in which lies Tokyo. n 15 n The Days of a Man 1900 These interesting ancient strongholds of provincial princes or daimyos are still dear to the hearts of the people, though no longer officially recognized as political units. 1 Odd During feudal days it was customary for princes protective to build wa lls of earth across the lanes leading into another province, in order to keep people and products at home. Referring to this practice, Pro- fessor Basil Hall Chamberlain 2 translates a dainty Japanese poem which relates to a Hitachi-Iwaki barrier: Methought this barrier, with its gusty breezes, was but a mere name, but, lo, the wild cherry blossoms flutter down to block the path. On the Fourth of July we attended a luncheon given ito and by Mr. Buck at the American Embassy. Prince amagata Yamagata, at that time prime minister, was among the numerous guests, as well as Prince Ito, his predecessor. With the straightforward sagacity of Ito, unquestionably the ablest statesman of con- temporary Japan, I was much impressed. Baseball In the afternoon I went to a baseball match be- i japan tween a Japanese nine and one made up of Americans resident in Yokohama; the home team won, not by hitting but by very clever base running. The sport, then already popular, soon became the national game, the students of the two local universities, Keio and Waseda, being special rivals. After a while contests between them had to be forbidden, as popu- lar feeling ran so high that riots were sometimes imminent. For each institution seems to have a 1 See Chapter xxvn, page 65. 2 Of the Imperial University of Tokyo, author of the excellent "Murray's Handbook for Japan." n 16 n 19003 Enoshima noisy following, Keio in the southern, and Waseda in the western part of the city. Teams from each have toured the United States, and American col- lege nines have played return matches in Tokyo. Our athletes as a whole show greater strength and skill, the Japanese more speed and agility on their feet. Next day we began serious work at Enoshima Picture ("island of pictures"), a bold, rocky, heavily wooded lsland promontory connected with the shore by a long sand spit submerged at spring tides. The usual entrance is through a V-shaped gorge up the steep sides of which the little town struggles symmetrically. A pretty inn received us in friendliest fashion, and with much low bowing, of course. The very lively little maid, whom we called O-Cho-San (Miss Butterfly), at once dubbed me "Daibutsu" ("Great Buddha") from my supposed resemblance to the huge and sublimely placid statue which ennobles the neigh- boring park at Kamakura on the mainland. "If I climbed on your back I should be like a chickadee on the back of an oak," she said. Enoshima's prime specialty is a lantern made of the dried, inflated skin of a big puffer fish, 1 through which a candle gleams with pleasing effect. Much in evi- dence also are pictures and figures of Benten, goddess of beauty, especially devoted to the island, as are those of Ebisu, 2 the fisher-god whose name was borne 1 Spheroides rubripes. 2 Pronounced " Aybees" the short u as nearly silent as you can make 'it, like the French final e as in Louvre. A uniform orthography for Japanese words, adopted also for the languages of Oceanica, was devised by Professor Chamber- n i? : The Days of a Man 1900 by our little inn. As we took Ebisu for patron saint, I shall here tell something about him. the His name (spelled with a bow and arrow in Chinese ' god ideograph) is said to indicate an outlander, a bar- barian perhaps, certainly an unsophisticate knowing only outdoor things. In any event he was banished by his father, the demigod Oanamuchi, to a lone, mist-covered island Oshima, no doubt to die of starvation. But instead he went a-fishing up and down the sandy shore, and his mother whispered through the soft warm wind of the Kuro Shio : 1 " Catch fish, my son; by fishing shalt thou be made a man." The sea was rife, the catch boundless, and fishermen then hailed Ebisu as their luck god. But soon he hungered for rice, which even demigods crave with raw fish. So, bearing a big red tai 2 or snapper under his arm, he wandered far afield till he found Daikoku, lain. In this system most vowels are sounded as in Italian. however, as in French, may be long or short but is usually long, as in Yokohama. long, largely used as a prefix or honorific, means great; short o means small. Thus oshima with short o is a small island; otaki, with long o, a great waterfall, otaki, with o short a small one. Short i and short u are inserted for the purpose of keeping two conso- nants apart, or to prevent a word from ending in a consonant n being the only one which may terminate a word. These short letters are practically silent like the first and the third e in the French bouleversement. Ai, the only diph- thong, is sounded like the English i in pine. In ei, the vowels are always sounded separately. Final e is never silent, having the value of ay in bay. / is zh, or the French / in bijou. G, always hard, has rather the force of ng when followed by a vowel. Thus Nagasaki is pronounced Na-ngasaki. This confusing arrangement, adopted throughout the Pacific, was presumably intended to distinguish the Japanese sound from the more guttural terminal ng so common in China. No is the sign of the genitive, and follows the noun to which it refers; e, picture, shima, island, hence Enoskima. Words are compounded much as in the Greek except that the first letter of the second word may be changed for euphony; thus, kawa, river, ogawa, great river; yu, hot water, taki, falls, yudaki, falls of hot water. Syllabic accent or stress is practically wanting as in French. 1 " Black Current," the Gulf" Stream of Japan. 2 Pagrosomus major, the "national fish" of Japan. C 18 3 1900] Japanese Hotels the smiling, short-legged, placid god of trade, sit- ting high, as usual, on two bags of rice. Striking at another once a mutually satisfactory bargain, the two be- came inseparable friends, twin gods of luck forever after. All native hotels in Japan lack privacy and quiet, matters about which the inhabitants seem not to care. Indeed, any one may enter any room at any time, for any purpose, or for none at all. Food, so far as I am concerned, is scanty and not filling, though a word from Abe always brought us eggs, chicken, or fried fish - - once in a great while beefsteak or milk. Meals are served to order on the floor, each course in lacquered dishes placed on a charming little stand, with always a large, box-like, covered bowl of boiled rice to which one helps himself without stint. Besides this, dinner usually consists of a vegetable soup, fish raw or boiled, hot or cold, and various kinds of pickled roots, especially lotus or lily. A delicate brew of light green tea may be had at all hours. Bread and butter, fortunately rare, were thoroughly bad, the former sour, the latter rancid. But every- thing is scrupulously clean - - excluding all shoes from matting-covered floors helps, of course, to keep it so - - and spontaneous friendliness makes the Friend- foreigner feel measurably at home in spite of the liness alien tongue and the absence of beds, chairs, tables, knives and forks. The ever ready bath, shared by all the guests, con- sists of a large tub of exceedingly hot water; usually also, a boy comes in to give each man a welcome rub- down, though in the more old-fashioned houses that service is modestly performed by women. One then puts on a yukata (bath robe) which he wears till bed- C 19 3 The Days of a Man t;i 9 oo time - - even on the street if so minded, at least in hot Kyushyu. At night On a pile of padded quilts (futon} one may rest well, but must rise too early, as rooms are thrown wide open betimes, the custom of the country being to begin sliding back partitions as soon as it gets light. Yet the native pays no attention and sleeps as long as he pleases, the men using a bag of sawdust for pillow, the women a narrow block of wood which does not muss their meticulously dressed hair. A characteristic night sound is the soft "tap, tap" of tiny pipes on little tobacco stands, for the waking guest commonly smokes a thimbleful of tobacco, and then strikes his minute bowl softly to remove the ashes. Morning toilettes are soon completed, every- body having taken a hot bath the previous evening, so that after a handful of cold water and a few moments spent in adjusting his kimono, a Japanese gentleman is ready for the day. The tea The hotel has no barroom; it is just what it an- house nounces itself, a place to eat and sleep, the tea house being the resort for pleasure. Intoxicated men we very rarely noticed, though one day we did meet on the road a "happy drunk," yelling and shouting hoarsely. The few orientals of this type that came our way belonged to the wealthier merchant class for which tea houses exist. According to Abe, these last are essentially immoral institutions, a sort of half-decent Japanese equivalent of our American dive. A little more of Western influence will bring them into the same class. On Enoshima's "farther shore" we came upon the finest tide pools I had ever seen, and made a rich C 20 n On Sag ami Bay catch of slippery blennies. Near by we found a singular wave-worn cavern, the widened end of a long fault which cuts across the entire island and is similarly gouged out on the north opening. Within, its sides are lined with a long series of stone images or jizos, besides a coiled snake, an elephant, and various other real or symbolic figures. When we left the picture island, O-Cho-San fol- o-cho lowed us across the bridge, calling out sayonara ^ an ' s (goodby) to all her associates, as though taking to the taking road with the Daibutsu combination. Neither pretty nor refined but full of good nature, she was one of the most joyous little creatures we met in Japan. Following by rail the curved shores of Sagami Bay, the car windows affording exquisite views of Fuji- yama, we next reached the high peninsula of Izu bounding the bay on the south, and continued up the ravine of a boisterous stream through hills covered with pine and bamboo, the latter looking like gigantic feathery ferns. Then crossing the mountain pass at picturesque Gotemba, we stopped for the night at Numazu, "swamp town," the entrance to a smiling plain, the richest district of all Japan. In Numazu an incongruous Methodist chapel, barn-like and painted dull red, contrasted strangely with the dainty Japanese homes. It seemed to me that while giving these people lessons in religion, we might learn from them something of beauty and fitness. The joy of the house at our inn, the Sugimoto, was a little three-year-old who bowed to the ground with absurdly solemn face according to the best etiquette. All took a hand in spoiling him, I with the rest, for Japanese children are a constant delight except when stunted by poverty and disease. C 21 3 The Days of a Man 1900 Fujiyama Just beyond Numazu we had our finest view of revealed Fuji, which had thrown off its cloud-cloaks and stood revealed in dazzling beauty, a stately cone and very high when thus viewed from sea-level. But native artists always exaggerate its steepness, a natural thing to do as I myself found when I tried to sketch it. At Nagoya we caught a glimpse of the famous many-flounced castle, then passed on through a level country wondrously pretty with green rice fields, bamboo-fringed hills, and villages smothered in foliage, till we came to Lake Biwa, the largest expanse of water in Japan. From there the road winds northward up and across the hills, then down to Tsuruga on the tideless Japan Sea. That night we lodged at the Kumagai, kept by peasant folk, bashful, awkward, and well-meaning as all the country people seemed to be. But the burly landlord scolded his help in a loud voice assumed to impress the guests. Early next morning he led us to market, paying for and carrying our purchases, evidently proud of his unusual responsibility. Crude though he was, we found him very intelligent, a fine, virile, out-of-doors man. That he wore only an open shirt and a towel did not disconcert us, as one soon learns to overlook unconventionality! Later in the day, however, we moved closer to the water, finding Daikoku Inn at the port better suited to our purposes. This is a charming little hotel; in the office sang a dainty blue white-bellied and fork-tailed swallow which had built its nest on a shelf out of reach by little boys. The eldest son of the household, an officer in the garrison near by, invited us to tea with four of his courteous brother lieutenants. One of these claimed to speak C 22 3 19003 To Kyushyu no German but failed ingloriously, even if good- naturedly, when put to the test. Collecting was good at Tsuruga, but a big snake Snyder found in a thicket being a protege of Ebisu, its capture would bring bad luck, the fishermen said ! And yet because the season had been very dry the people were whacking the heads of the mud gods of Omi, who had neglected the rice fields. Fortu- nately for the reputation of those poor deities, it rained hard the morning we left. From Tsuruga we hastened to southern Japan, crossing a narrow strait of the Inland Sea to the port of Moji on the great island of Kyushyu. Leaving Moji, the railway passes through a pretty hill coun- try with many plantations of lacquer trees - - Rhus vernicifera - - a sort of sumac with spreading, umbrella top. In the highlands lies the dainty, Swiss-like village of Arita, where they make the fine Imari porcelain. Farther on we came to the placid, fjord-like bay of Omura; then, having crossed another ridge, dropped into the city of Nagasaki. There the honorable governor of the province, in one Mitsukuri, a shrewd and agreeable gentleman, re- Na ^ asakt ceived us most hospitably and introduced me to the director of fisheries, Kobaraki, who took much inter- est in our work and who in turn presented to us Yahiro, a dealer in monkeys. Being then sorely tempted, I bought two of those fascinating animals, arranging to have both sent in due time to my return steamer at Yokohama. We now discovered what seemed at first an alarm- ing setback, but which really turned out to our advantage. In Tokyo we had bought ten barrels of n 23 3 The Days of a Man 1900 alcohol to be delivered to us at Nagasaki. But the Boxer uprising having broken out in China, and the Japanese government needing all available trans- ports for troops, it seized the vessel and put off our Formalin alcohol at Moji. This deprived us of the usual pre- repiaces servative, leaving no resource except to try formalde- alcohol & r J hyde, a substance not before used on any large scale for such a purpose. But we found it very satisfactory for quick work, as great numbers of fishes could be washed, pricked to admit the fluid, wrapped, and stowed away within a few hours without the tedious process of successive baths in alcohol. It is, however, inadvisable to leave specimens more than a few weeks in formalin, as they grow spongy and the bones are partly dissolved; nevertheless, for field work it proved a real boon, and after our return to Tokyo the Japanese government, at the instance of Pro- fessor Mitsukuri, paid us in full for the alcohol dumped on the Moji wharf. In Nagasaki it poured and poured, day after day. But the rainy season being due to end on July 15. we confidently drove that day to Mogi, a fishing village on the sandy shore of the Bay of Obama, east of Nagasaki peninsula, over a road which ran through exquisite scenery resembling a bit of northern Italy. Mogi swarmed with kindly, primitive folk, very scanty of apparel as befits the hot climate, and delightfully unconscious of the fact; old women naked to the waist showed a fine dignity and returned our "Ohayo" 1 with grace and good nature. In Mogi we were joined by James H. Means, the Stanford engineer, just back from Mongolia, whence he had escaped from the Boxers on the last train to 1 "Good morning." C 24 : 19003 The Hostess of the Unicorn leave that region. He had some uncomplimentary things to say of Urga, the capital, but later wrote that he had since been on the Gold Coast of Africa, and wished to take back all he had ever said in criti- cism of Mongolia, as well as of Arkansas, where he had once served as assistant geologist under Branner. Means accompanied me on a short but interesting trip to Obama and Unzen, the latter a mountain resort famous for its hot sulphur springs. During our passage across the bay we encountered very rough surf caused by a gale blowing straight in from the sea. The steamer having swashed through and come to rest behind the Obama breakwater, we were taken off in a sampan or rowboat, a poor seasick Japanese lady still clinging to my knees as to a last hope. At the dock waited O-Mime-San, the locally famous hostess of Ikakku-ro or Unicorn Inn, who San asked if I were not Dr. Jordan and greeted me like an old friend. Later I learned that some one at Mogi informed her each day by telegraph of her prospective guests. This young woman spoke English well and with a sympathetic tone, thus making each feel himself the object of her special consideration. She had risen in her profession by devoted attention to the demands of English folk, some of which were very strange, to say the least. One lady whom we saw English depart for a few days at Unzen had two pack ponies loaded with trunks and blankets, several umbrellas, and a big, uncompromising bathtub, she herself riding high above a pile of luggage in a chair. Leaving Cbama, I rode a wild stallion which Mime said I must pardon for his antics, he being country- bred! Our path, forced to the wall by ancient, C 25 3 eccen- tricities 'The Days of a Man 1900 A superb crowding cemeteries which hold the right of way, trip started straight up a rock staircase two or three hundred feet high. But having surmounted the hill (which yields superb views of Obama Bay and its bounding mountains) it widened into a sort of turn- pike, expensively built though washed out in numer- ous places by lawless streams not held in check. Farther on it passed into the clouds, invisible preci- pices dropping off on either side. Along the way we heard a charming song-sparrow, and higher up a wren with an elaborate melody first, the simple "teacher-teacher" common to many little birds, then a variety of charming notes. Crickets were frequent, and cicadas of several species, insistent and per- sistent. One I made out to be the noted bridlebit insect, from its loud and curious jingle. Grape and greenbrier vines grew in the flowery bush and the blue '' butterfly flower" - Commelyna - in the ditches, along with the familiar heal-all or Brunella. At Unzen the boiling springs and sulphur fumaroles spread over about a mile. But the two most striking phenomena, the geyser of "Loud Wailing" which throws a jet ten feet high, and the excessively hot spring called "Second Class Hell," are of trifling note compared with the Yellowstone displays. 4 Returning to our hotel at Nagasaki, we found there many American ladies, most of them handsome and attractive, the wives and daughters of naval officers from the Philippines, then engaged in hunting Boxers in China. As has been observed, young lieu- tenants and Anglican rectors often have the pick of C 26 ] 55 w SI H O o 19003 Nagasaki Again the girls ! All were naturally lonely and worried, with nothing to do but wait in the heat for news from Peking. Refugees from China, also, soon began to crowd The lady the hotels. Entering our own one day, I observed repents an American woman of muscular build and deter- mined expression telling the clerk what she thought of him and his inability to answer her questions. When I ventured to interrupt by giving the desired information, she turned on me fiercely and said: "Young man, when I want to hear anything from you, I'll let you know." The next moment she sud- denly dropped to the floor all the packages with which her arms were full, and exclaimed: 'Why, Dr. Jordan, I'm so delighted to see you! I'm Mrs. -. You will remember my son at Stanford." I did remember the youth very well, for on his way from New York to enter the University, he had wired me to meet him at the Palo Alto station at a certain hour. Having incautiously shown the telegram to a TOO colleague, I was afterward amused to hear that cor f tal iy ' welco meet . though I myself failed, the newcomer was welcomed by a hundred or more uproarious students who gave him so enthusiastic a greeting that, for a moment at least, he felt quite at home! The story of events at Peking during the Boxer uprising, as it came to me through refugees, is faith- fully related in ''Indiscreet Letters from Peking" by an Englishman (Lennox Simpson) who writes under the pen name of Putnam Weale. Of the many sug- Putnam gestive things in the book, one paragraph stands out Weale especially in my memory. Referring to a statement attributed to Lord Kitchener, the author says: C 27 3 Days of a Man [1900 Great soldiers have often told their men, after great battles have been fought and great wars won, that they had "tasted the salt of life." The salt of life! It can be nothing but the salt of death which has lain for a brief instant on the tongue of every soldier; a revolting salt which the soldier refuses to swallow and only is compelled to with strange cries and demon- like mutterings. Sometimes, poor mortal, all his struggles The salt and his oaths are in vain. The dread salt is forced down his of death throat and he dies. . . . Or he may not entirely succumb, but carry traces to the grave. It is a very subtle poison, which may lie hidden in the blood for many months and many years. I believe it is a terrible thing. A series of atrocities, then apparently unprece- dented, followed the arrival of the German military contingent in China under the command of Count Waldersee, after all need for severity had passed. Conditions precedent to the despatch of the expedition were described as follows by Henry N. Brailsford: 1 No veneration for the inner ruling caste which has made the wars of Europe could survive a study of the memoirs which deal with the life of Bismarck, and his successor, Prince Hohenlohe. The Hohenlohe Memoirs, given to the world in 1906, expurgated though they were, remind the reader of the books in which our Puritan ancestors used to revel under such titles as "Satan's Berlin Invisible World Revealed." The book is simply a dissection intrigue of the personal ambitions and intrigues of the courtiers, generals, and ministers who surrounded the German Emperor during the years when Germany exercised a species of supremacy on the Continent. One may take as typical of the mind of these persons an entry by Prince Hohenlohe regarding the policy of Germany toward France in 1889. There was at this time some serious question of provoking war with France, and the main reason for hurrying it forward was apparently the eagerness of the German generalissimo, Count Waldersee, a most influential person at court, to reap the glory which is to be had only by leading armies in the field. There was unluckily no obvious pretext for war, but on the other hand Count Waldersee, who i "The War of Steel and Gold." C 28 3 19003 Suppressing the Boxers was growing old, was obsessed by the painful reflection that if the inevitable war were postponed much longer he would be compelled, a superannuated veteran, to witness the triumphs of a younger rival. In the end it was found impossible to pro- vide Count Waldersee with a European war, but to the aston- ishment of mankind the Kaiser did, before he reached the age limit, arrange a punitive expedition to China for his benefit. If he reaped no glory by it, the Chinese will not soon forget his prowess against noncombatants and movable property. On the eve of their departure from Germany the Kaiser made the troops a famous address: When you meet the foe you will defeat him. No quarter will be given; no prisoners will be taken. Let all who fall into your hands be at your mercy. Just as the Huns a thousand The years ago, under the leadership of Etzel (Attila), 1 gained a Kaiser's reputation in virtue of which they still live in historical tradi- tion, so may the name of Germany become known in such a manner that no Chinese will ever again dare to look askance at a German. Here appeared the first application of the epithet :< Hun" to the German soldiery, and for its apt use the Kaiser himself must be held responsible. The Prussian army thus sent forth struck terror to the hearts of a atrocltus defenseless people, especially the womenfolk, hun- dreds of whom sought refuge in the buildings of the foreign embassies, while many others drowned them- selves in wells to escape an abominable fate. A trustworthy American living in Tientsin at the time related to me the following story: A certain Colonel May (presumably English) got together a group of several hundred Chinese and took them about the country to pacify the people by explaining to them the purposes of the Allies. Hearing of this moving body, the Germans set out in pursuit; May thereupon ordered his men to stack their arms and prepare a luncheon for the advancing troops. That 1 This reference to the great Hun leader is perhaps unjust, for Attila in his day seems to have been something of a man. C 29 3 The Days of a Man Ci 9 oo meal having been duly eaten, the "Huns" were commanded to shoot down their hosts, in order (as one officer is reported to have said) to give the men "a taste of blood." Later these heroes received medals from their government "for gallantry in action " stealing A peculiarly inexcusable, though perhaps Napole- an observ O nic, piece of vandalism was the theft by Waldersee of the astronomical instruments from the Imperial Palace at Peking. These dated far back into history and were of enormous and irreplaceable value. Taken to Potsdam and set up in the park as trophies they there remain - - to be returned, however, in accord- ance with the Treaty of Versailles. But the expedi- tion secured, in addition to "glory" and loot, money enough to cover several times its own cost. For the German government forced on China the payment of an indemnity amounting to about thirty million dollars a year for forty years. With the outbreak of the Great War, however, the flow of tribute from China to Berlin naturally ceased. Various The Waldersee expedition, moreover, did not con- fi ne itself to murder and pillage of an organized sort; both officers and men committed outrages of many and various kinds in a private way. During the German occupation of the foreign concession at Tientsin, many unpleasant incidents occurred. As a long line of Chinese were engaged in carrying coal for a German ship, one of the men, being lame and slow, caused a break in the line, for which grave misdemeanor he was promptly shot by an officer standing by, that the procession might move evenly. After such occurrences, native labor naturally be- came refractory and quite reluctant to serve the Germans. C 30 3 1900] Prussians in Tientsin The buildings of the University of Tientsin, an American foundation, were used as barracks. An Englishwoman whose house was temporarily occupied by German officers afterward found molasses poured between the dresses she had carefully packed away in a chest. One night Herbert Hoover missed his The milk cow; accompanied then by three or four Ameri- can and English friends and a Chinese servant leading the lowing calf, he went along the street, feeling sure that the disconsolate mother would respond to the call of her offspring. This in fact she did, loudly and unmistakably. But the German officers quartered on the premises at first stoutly denied harboring any cow at all. Forced at last to admit the truth, they said that cow and calf should no longer be separated and kept them both! It has been frequently noticed that the phrase noblesse oblige has no synonym in the Junker tongue. While in Europe in 1910, I learned that after the return of Waldersee, one Herr Kiihnert of Halle ventured to assert that the contingent had been guilty of atrocities in China. Brought before the court for trial, his defense was that he had said that 'the allied armies, of which our soldiers were a part," committed certain atrocities. According to my last information Kiihnert had been three weeks in jail, but the decision of the higher court never reached me. 1 Venturing to discuss the above matters with Dr. Otto Seeck of the University of Miinster, a distin- guished professor of History, 2 I elicited only a brief 1 This incident impressed me at the time as throwing a strong sidelight on Prussian methods. Seven years later, the administration of the " Defense of the Realm Act" (familiarly known in England as "Dora") and our own "Espi- onage Act" showed plainly that in time of stress other nations do not scruple to override civil liberty. See Chapter LIV, page 750. 2 See Chapter xxxvn, page 324. C 31 13 The Days of a Man 1900 Misplaced comment : "No doubt our officers in China knew confidence w hat they were about." In Nagasaki I met Homer Lea, a former student, then on the way to Tokyo to see Mr. Buck, and hoping through him to induce the powers of Europe to intervene in behalf of the lawful Emperor of China as against the Empress Dowager. Lea had finished the sophomore year at Stanford. Though a hunchback dwarf, he was a youth of extraordinary parts ready memory, very vivid imagination, im- perturbable coolness, and an obsession for militarism and war. To his associates in college he was known as a "cub" reporter, a remarkable poker player in a small way, and an inveterate student of Napoleon's Romantic campaigns and of the military philosophy of England militarism anc | G erman y. Yor diversion he used to wander about the hills overlooking Santa Clara Valley, work- ing out methods of attack and defense. In 1899, after a dangerous illness, he was warned that he had only three months more to live. He determined therefore to make the most of that time along Napoleonic lines. Seeking out the leader of the Chinese in San Francisco, Dr. Ng Poon Chew a most effective orator even in English - - Homer put himself and his talents at the disposal of the revolu- tionary group, stating that he was a relative of General Robert E. Lee of Civil War fame. Chew and his friends then agreed to send him to China as a military expert. But in characteristic fashion he informed the public of these plans through the pages of the San Francisco Call, and was promptly refused access to China by customs officials. At the British port of Hongkong he met Sun Yat C 32 : Homer Lea ranee Sen, the brilliant dreamer, who conceived a great liking for him. Passing on to Macao, the Portuguese concession, he found himself out of money, and appealed successfully to the Chinese in San Fran- cisco for transportation home. Once arrived in Cali- fornia, however, he paid no further attention to them. But about this time he appointed himself "Lieu- A seif- tenant General of the Chinese Army, in command of made the Second Division"; this consisted of such Chinese g boys as he could induce to drill with broomsticks on vacant lots about Los Angeles. His own uniform of dark blue, with epaulets and brass buttons, he devised himself, and added thereto a number of con- ventional decorations. "General Homer Lea" then published his much- "The quoted volume, 'The Valor of Ignorance," a plea Falor f for a great American army to meet the coming gn onset of Japan, combined with an elaborate exposi- tion of the philosophy of militarism. In this he cleverly imitated the writings of actual authorities, and his statistics furnished material for the yellow journals in their clamor for war on the Pacific. Later he put out a lurid novel of Chinese life entitled "The Vermilion Pencil," the villains of the story being mis- sionaries, especially those of the Catholic Church. Another work, "The Fate of the Anglo-Saxon," pro- claimed that the only hope of escape from the hordes of Asia lay in thorough military discipline and prepa- ration. Upon one of my visits to Los Angeles some years later, I was (as usual) given a dinner by the Stanford Club of that city, containing about a hundred mem- bers. Lea sent his regrets, but invited us all to dine with him at the Hotel Angelus the following evening. C 33 3 The Days of a Man 1900 The young people paid little attention to the note, for the "General" was never taken seriously by his former associates. Two of them, 1 nevertheless, offered to go with me if I cared to accept the invitation which I did. During the meal Lea told us wonderful stories of his adventures in China as commander of "sixty thousand men." If he found any general false to him- - "off with his head!" But he "made the mistake of his life" when he left China for Tokyo in a vain effort to induce the Powers to take up the young Emperor's The "Old cause, for during his absence the tricky "Old Bud- Buddka's" (Jh a " Yehonala, invited his officers to a conference trick under a flag of truce, and then seized and beheaded them all! He therefore found it quite impossible to reorganize another army, and so returned to the United States. As to 'The Vermilion Pencil," he prophesied that its approaching publication would produce a violent reaction and put an end to mis- sionary work in China. With the outbreak of the Revolution in 1911 Lea proceeded at once to Shanghai with Sun Yat Sen, who became temporary President of the Chinese Republic. He was, however, taken ill there and died in 1912 at the age of thirty-seven, after a stormy career of his own creation. One could hardly help a kindly feeling for the ambitious little romancer trying to make the most of his short life, limited physique, and boundless imagination. 5 Leaving Nagasaki with rich booty, we went north to Kawatana on the glassy Bay of Omura. Here the 1 Dr. Paul A. Adams and Henry Z. Osborne, Jr. n 343 19003 Hard Luck best of our catch came not from the sea, but from scraping the ditches in the rice fields. The inn, Batches of though friendly, was primitive, and as often happens the ni s llt in the humbler houses, night seemed to be divided into watches. For the first hour mice scampered over the floor; then, all becoming quiet, a starved cat got on the roof and wailed dejectedly for an hour or two. Japanese cats, I may say, play in the hardest kind of luck, having neither milk nor meat, only scraps, mostly fishbones, which no one else will eat. Dogs suffer the same sorrows; most of them are cross and miserable. At Tsuruga I saw one being fed on sweet pickles supplemented by only a tiny scrap of fish, and he looked up sadly as he pushed the pickles aside as much as to say: "I'd like to, but I can't." By the time the cat was quiet, up rose a bantam rooster, a tiny red fellow about as big as a robin, who crowed lustily. The hen made her nest on a shelf in the hotel office, and the cock occasionally flew up to sit beside her very friendly and nice of him if he had not got up so early. As to the cat again, we noticed with pain that cat bridges extend from one roof to another; but were consoled by the reflection that they are used going as well as coming. From Kawatana we proceeded inland to Kurume, Kurume a quiet, old-fashioned city on the banks of the d Chikugo, a big river, and for our purposes the best stream in Japan, since from it we obtained collec- tions of unusual scientific interest. Near Kurume are the mineral springs of Funayado on a high bluff above a rushing river. The carbonated water is of excellent quality, the inn attractive, and w r ell-to-do folk from the countryside gather there to drink, bathe, fish, and loiter. C 35 3 The Days of a Man 1900 Beautiful Back once more to the Inland Sea, we crossed the \fiyajima narrow straits of Shimonoseki, then proceeded east- ward to the rocky "temple island," 'Miyajima" the beautiful, 1 the delight of cultured Japan. Miyajima town struggles up a steeply symmetrical hill crowned with green pines, and fringed with bamboos rising from matted ferns, the whole flanked below by a white beach and a deep-green sea. The spacious temple, built on pillars along the shore, seems at high water to float on the surface. In front stands the famous torii beloved of artists, its foundations also covered save at dead low tide. For trifling sums we bought wonderful colored pictures of the place, delightful in their untruthfulness, an attempt - rather characteristically Japanese - - to convert a beautiful scene into a theatrical impossibility. Hiroshima At Hiroshima, near by on the mainland, the fish market detained us for some time, the kuruma man carrying the purse and loyally looking out for our interests after the fashion of his kind. The boys of his class we could always trust, and of all Japanese laborers I liked these swift racers best. But it is risky to give more than one word at a time to a Japanese servant who knows only a bit of English, for he takes that and lets everything else go. Thus if you say, "It is hot weather tonight," the chances are that he will bring you a pitcher of hot water. And on the other hand it behooves travelers to give some tolerant attention to unfamiliar lingual deviations. For Japanese boys are often wrongly accused of falsehood because they say " iss " (yes) 2 on many occasions when ir The most admired of the famous "scenic trio" of Japan, each unique in its way. The others are Matsushima in the north and Ama-no-Hashidate on the western sea. 2 In Japanese, Sayo, "yes," or "quite right." c 36 : 19003 The Inland Sea no is the truth. Especially will they thus reply to certain negative forms. 'You haven't fed the cat, have you?" "Yes." That means, 'Yes, you are right; I have not." Leaving Hiroshima, we stopped for a few hours at the ancient and singularly picturesque fishing town of Onomichi, remarkable for its abundance of the small and curious fishes known as seahorses. For all such things I paid a good price, a fact which produced considerable excitement. The story then went round that Ebisu himself had come and was buying sea- retun horses and gobies for more than real fishes were worth! And here our wise and considerate helper showed a trait I thought characteristically Japanese. With the fishes we had gathered large numbers of the interesting yellowish-white seaworm - - Sipunculus. These Abe threw away - really because they squirmed, ostensibly because (he said) we could get all we wanted of them in Tokyo, though we never saw the species afterward. At Kobe, the large seaport of Osaka, we found little of scientific interest. But we were there joined by James F. Abbott, a Stanford graduate of '99, then Abbott teacher of English in a college at Otsu on Lake Biwa. Abbott remained with us for a couple of weeks and was of great service, for besides being an accom- plished zoologist, he had already learned to speak and even read Japanese. Later he became professor of English in the Imperial Naval College of Etajima; and afterward (following his return to America) pro- fessor of Zoology in Washington University, St. Louis, there succeeding Arthur W. Greeley, his gifted college mate and brother in Delta Upsilon, after the latter' s sudden, untimely death. Recently Abbott's knowl- C 37 D The Days of a Man Kobe speaks English Osaka Waka- yama edge of Japan has led him to accept a position as expert in commercial relations between that country and ours. Kobe, proud of its foreign connections, affected a knowledge of English. On the street I noticed the following signs: WE ARE THE LAUNDRY OPPOSITE DYED FOR MOURNING IN ONE CLEAR DAY BEEF'S WHOLESALE DEALER MACHINERY AND MATERIAL FOR PHOTOGRAPHY The city of Osaka, the great national center of manufacture, did not go out of its way in the matter of English. At that time, at least, it showed no visi- ble signs of any sort of foreign influence. In the ample markets we found much of interest, but neither fishes, castle, factories, nor canals need now detain us. So, leaving the huge town to swelter in the sun, I shall take my readers southward along the shores of a very blue bay alive with little sails, next up a sharp promontory of hornblende and asbestos schists - coming at last to Wakayama, a large, clean, sleepy city on a broad plain surrounded on three sides by high mountains, and opening out southwestward toward the sea. In the midst, on a bold spur of up- turned hornblende, stands Wakayama's intricate castle, the most perfect of its type extant, half hidden in trees and surrounded by a moat filled with lotus and frogs. Jogging over the road by jinrikisha to our next station, Wakanoura, " inlet of romantic song/' we n 38 : 19003 W^akanoura overhauled the patient fishmongers trotting along with catch too small or too soft to be worth sending to Osaka. Among them were several good things, and we pushed forward with a confidence amply re- warded. The village itself snuggles at the foot of a pine-clad promontory fronting a little island with seven long-armed pines symmetrically arranged in typical Japanese fashion, for in that country nature conspires with art. A great double row of straggling pines over which "cranes fly crying" borders the long beach: Waka-no-ura ni Shio michi kureba, Kara wo nami Ashibe wo sashite Tazu naki wataru. On the little bay of Waka When the tide flows in, Dry land being none, Toward the place of the reeds The cranes fly crying. Behind are sharp cliffs - - isolated spurs of horn- blende - - of which one, Kimiidera, is very sacred, and bears a famous temple with a superb view. To the west the steep and high hills end in an abrupt cape breaking off into black rock islets. The little The Bay bay is very blue and clear. Tempered by the Kuro f Waka Shio, the life-giving current from the Philippines, it abounds with warm-water life swarming crab, squid, octopus, shrimp, jellyfish, and all manner of other spoils of the sea. In the course of three days there we got two hundred species, a dozen or so of them new. Nowhere outside the coral reefs of the tropics had I yet found a richer field. C 39 3 The Days of a Man 1900 The advent of the fish-god, moreover, occasioned even greater excitement than at Onomichi. The whole community was wrought up. Children and women searched the fish boxes and rubbish heaps if haply they might find something salable. Never less than thirty children followed me about constantly, till I felt like Kipling's Kangaroo chased by the Dingo in his search for popularity. One bright, naked little lad worked all the rock crevices with hook and line, using a towel for net, and brought us a host of remarkable things of value, thus earning two yen a day. Some offered insects, especially the musical cicadas the Japanese cherish in cages. As a community, the people impressed one as capable and intelligent but extremely primitive. The A discon- village giant, a six-foot blacksmith weighing some soiate jQ O p 0un (i s followed me around mournfully. The giant . . TTT , , J biggest man ever seen at Wakanoura up to that time, his supremacy had now departed. He said nothing, but felt once or twice of my arms to see if I were really as big as I looked! A little girl about ten years old, totally different from the rest of the family, whiter than the others and with a distinct suggestion of French blood, inter- ested me greatly. There was doubtless a story behind it all. She lived in a mere hut. The fisherman father wore only a loin cloth; mother and grandmother had the blackened teeth of the humble peasant and went about their affairs clad in only a coarse skirt. An older sister was as guileless as a half-grown heifer and A little as careless of appearances. Yet this child had all the lajy grace of manner of a high-born lady and a sense of personal pride wholly foreign to her family and c 40 -j Village Children associates. Her little white jacket and decent skirt she wore as though they were fine garments, yet at the same time did her work with no sign of aloofness. A shy little thing, she ran away when I looked at her, seeming in every respect strangely out of place among the children of the beach, though she too was semi-aquatic, and swam like a duck. Boys swarmed there, many of them paddling about in wooden tubs just big enough to squat in, with bamboo sticks for oars. Thus humbly equipped, they would fish happily for hours, even in deep water. Nevertheless, these joyous children suffered from Physical certain serious handicaps - - mouth breathing, mainly handlca P s caused by adenoids, and .sore eyes, two maladies common among the poor, especially in the southern districts of Japan. The first naturally results from lack of proper heat during the damp and chilly win- ter, to be further aggravated by the prevalent ciga- rette habit. But both difficulties are associated with the custom by which young children are carried around with drooping heads on the backs of their older sisters, often facing the sun and always exposed to dust and infection. Eczema of the scalp, also pain- fully common among the smaller youngsters, is thought to be made worse by shaving their heads. This custom, already passing away in 1900, was a semi-religious rite, it being superstitiously thought essential to success in life. One Buddhist demigod, when properly propitiated, was supposed to keep children from crying during the process. Abe, much distressed at the sight of so many sore eyes in villages without a physician, inquired of me in some detail as to the remedial uses of borax and zinc oxide; and, having the ear of the press in Tokyo, C 4i 3 The Days of a Man 1900 he decided to start a reform for the benefit of country children. Many well-to-do people spend the summer at Our defer- Wakanoura. One boy from the Kyoto High School went about with a volume entitled " Decision' of friend Charac'ter," as he accented it, a long-winded moral treatise used as a textbook in English. Some passages, dull enough at the best, he did not understand, and appealed to me for explanation. He was really very bright but exasperatingly deferential. Following me around to pick up crumbs of wisdom and to try out his English, he asked many questions one Japanese way of showing polite interest. But the accent of his native teacher was so different from ours that he understood but little of what we said. Leaving Wakanoura with feelings of warm affec- tion and real regret, we hastened northward by way of lovely Kyoto, where we spent an all-too-brief day as ordinary tourists. But eleven years afterward I returned with Mrs. Jordan to that superb ancient capital for a somewhat longer stay, and I therefore pass it by without further notice for the time being. 1 At Hikone (on Lake Biwa) we spent a couple of days, gathering a rich harvest of little minnows. There we found shelter in the Raku-raku-tei, "man- Garden sion of rest," later Raku-raku-en, "garden of rest," the most charming hostelry of our experience. That fine old palace-villa formerly belonged to the princes of li, the last one of whom played a prominent part as defender of the Shogunate during the struggle subsequent to Perry's arrival in Japan. This famous nobleman, "a man of rare sagacity and favorable to foreign intercourse," was murdered in 1860 by 1 See Chapter xxxix, page 384. n 42 n 1900] The Castle of li order of the Prince of Mito, who desired to supplant his li kinsmen. Adjoining the exquisite villa garden is another, somewhat finer in certain respects and containing in miniature "the eight beauties of Omi." Above, on the steep, wooded hill dominating the wonderful double garden, stands a chaste, three- storied, white-walled donjon, the remains of the noted feudal castle of the li family. From it one gets a superb view of the whole province of Omi, the great lake, and the forested mountains around about. C43 CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN re- AT Tokyo our loyal Abe left us, glad to have seen so places Abe muc } 1 o f ^j s na tive land in our company and to have gathered material for an essay on 'Japan as Seen through Foreign Eyes." Otaki, equally energetic, more demonstrative, and less given to philosophy, now succeeded to all duties and privileges. The northern tour (on which we set forth without delay) proved quite as rich in scientific results as that through the south, and even more interesting because the fish-fauna of the north had never been studied before. Moreover, we now found the country people in general more spirited and sympathetic, and, on the whole, better educated than their southern fellows. Physically, they have longer faces and average rather larger and stronger, the round head character- istic of Kyushyu, still more of the Ryukyu Islands farther south, being rarely observed by us northward from Tokyo. After a long day's ride we reached Sendai, the largest town in northern Japan. But while yet some forty miles away, caught without coats or collars be- cause of the heat, and wearing a general air of doubt- ful respectability, we were met by a delegation of Dr. leading citizens. At the head appeared Dr. David B. Schneder, the wise and devoted president of North Japan College and for thirteen years a missionary of the Dutch Reformed Church in Sendai. At the station, thirty more men awaited us. On being intro- duced by Schneder, each proffered his card, then C 44 3 8 en da i tnaccus- held out a hand in uncertain fashion as though prac- ticing a new and strange rite, allowing us to shake it as we chose. But I had carelessly come without cards, for hitherto we had found people incurious and so had had little need to exchange these mementos. The double ceremony over, the stack I held amounted to about seventy, and the mayor, Satomi-San, kindly ordered a supply with my name in both Eng- lish and Japanese. We were now conducted to Schneder's hospitable home and there made welcome for the length of our stay. At six the next morning we reached the fish market, where a group of prominent people awaited us with bated breath, as Mr. Satomi had given orders that nothing should be sold to any one before my arrival. It was, indeed, a surprisingly solemn occa- sion, the elite of the city having assembled there to do 1omed i o i r ceremony honor to us as scientists, batomi, a plump, fair- skinned man with jet-black, clustering beard, wore the conventional dark frock coat, the tall chief of police appeared in white gloves, and the city council and teachers were also in frock coats. The main catch that day was shibi or tuna, the red flesh of which is eaten raw or boiled and soaked in soi, a salty brown sauce made from the soya bean; but I found a few new or rare species. My inspection over, a member of the council, Mr. Yoshioka, bought all I had laid aside and presented them to Stanford University. At North Japan College I gave an address inter- preted by Otaki. The mayor then made a gracious speech translated by Nakamura, a future student of Stanford, into excellent English - - expressing his own pleasure and Sendai's gratitude for my visit, my talk, and my friendship, and asking leave to pre- 11 45 3 The Days of a Man [1900 A study sent a "memorial." This was a kakemono painted Chidden by Toya, Sendai's most famous artist, who died in kills" 1850. A delicate moonlight study of a rabbit lurk- ing among autumnal flowers in the sendai (that is, ''hidden hills" or "high places of secrecy") and said to be a characteristic specimen of Toya's work, it illustrates the first canon of Japanese landscape art by embodying "earth, sky, and a living creature." When I in turn expressed appreciation in my pret- tiest fashion, tea and raisins were served, after which they asked me to tell them about Stanford Univer- sity. During our stay, Count Date, representative of an old and famous family, showed me a box of fish paintings made a hundred years before for his noble house. These were excellently done, the species being readily recognizable. Among others was the remark- A strange able Ranzauia makua, a very strange fish already described by Jenkins from Honolulu - - in which the tail seems to be directly fastened to the large head without intervening body. 1 It was labeled (in Japan- ese, of course) "off the sea of Akabane, Mikawa, by Sokichi Minake." There is no other record of makua from Japan, and only five specimens all from Hawaii have ever been noted elsewhere. In view of our great interest, the daimyo afterward sent Snyder a careful copy of that particular painting. From Sendai we made a very interesting side trip to Matsushima, "pine islands," according to popular estimation second only to Miyajima in charm. For the broad and shallow bay is studded with a multi- tude of small, rocky islands said to number 808, each 1 Ranzania truncata, also rare, is found in the Atlantic. The genus is allied to the common Head-fish, Mola mola. C 46 D 19003 At Matsushima one bearing a few long-armed pine trees, often fan- tastically shaped, the whole combining to form a scene of truly unusual beauty. Not far from the town is a somewhat noted quarry of hard fossil wood carbonized to a rich black - from which they make handsome, heavy, highly polished trays etched with charming views of the "pine islands." On the thickly wooded promontory Thrifty to the north, monkeys still lived, I was told, coming monke y s down at low tide to gather edible seaweed Porphyra - for their winter store. In Matsushima Bay, remote as it is from the Kuro Shio, we began to get distinctive northern forms, several of them new and of special interest. As already stated, the fishes of the cold waters of Japan had leceived no attention from ichthyologists, only a few scattering notices, mostly derived from Perry's expedition, having been published. In the south, on the contrary, the larger fishes, especially those used for food, had long been fairly well-known to science. For in the '40/5, when the Dutch were the only Westerners privileged to enter Japan, Dr. Karl Th. von Siebold of Leiden sent over a capable natu- ralist named Burger, who gathered much material at Nagasaki and elsewhere in Kyushyu. Upon this collection was based a finely illustrated volume of the "Fauna Japonica" by Coenrad J. Temminck "Fauna and Herrmann Schlegel. Later, in the 'yo's and '8o's, J a P nica " two successive foreign professors of Zoology in the Imperial University of Tokyo, Franz Hilgendorf of Berlin and Ludwig Doderlein of Vienna, published careful studies of the species found in the Tokyo markets, the most important being the joint work of Steindachner and Doderlein. But the vast array C 47 : The Days of a Man 1900 of sculpins, blennies, and rockfish of the north re- mained largely unknown until our visit. Count At Sendai we were asked to take with us the young Count Uesugi (a student of Spooner, Otaki, and Kokubo), a very intelligent, fragile, undersized youth of about eighteen, with long face, grave de- meanor, and quiet dignity. Though a descendant - the last - - of a famous Japanese warrior of the house of Yonezawa, Uesugi was emphatically a man of peace unfortunately marked, however, for early death. Before leaving "the hidden hills" we received by the hands of two special envoys a pleasant invita- tion from the mayor of Morioka, capital of Rikuchu, to visit their city on our way north. Then finding that we planned to stop over at Ichinoseki, one of the men went on ahead and reserved rooms for us there at Ishihashi ("Stone Bridge") Inn. Arriving, we found that excellent hotel decorated with Japanese flags and otherwise quite prepared for the American The eanh- scientists. Hardly had we established ourselves, nowever > when a vigorous earthquake began to thump and sway the house with some degree of vio- lence, and for more than a minute; but as neither Otaki nor the maid stirred or remarked on it, we too appeared not to notice ! Afterward, upon my inquir- ing about general earthquake etiquette, Otaki said the shock was a rather severe one, so that we should have been perfectly justified in running downstairs into the street. Later we heard that the disturbance, radiating from the volcano Azumayama, was very violent in the mountains, a number of woodsmen having been killed. Ichinoseki, poverty-stricken and sleepy, lies never- c 48 n 19003 Farther North theless in a rich valley; Uesugi explained that the city, rich and powerful in feudal days, had fallen in modern times from its former high estate. Going out to fish, we found that the clear, shallow, stony Iwai River held very little life, and most of our local collection came from small boys angling with hook and line at a little waterfall under the bridge. But our nets were carried for us by a dignified, close- shaven gentleman resembling a young parson, who, being reduced in circumstances and thus compelled to dispense with trousers, had to put up with odd jobs on the street. From Ichinoseki the railway follows up the rich green valley of the Kitakami, the fine old ceremonial road, Tokaido, crossing it at intervals. For hundreds The of miles this royal highway, bordered on each side by Tokaido cryptomerias and tall, straggling pines - - each an artist's study - - is one of the most charming features of the land. What tales it could tell, both bloody and heroic! Charming also are the Shinto temples and their sacred groves protected by torii. In Morioka again everybody came out to welcome us, a leading missionary (the Rev. Rothesay Miller), the mayor (Kiyooka), and the head teacher (Onodera) being well to the front. The handsome town, crossed by two very rapid rivers, is backed by lofty mountains and surrounded by extensive apple orchards and fertile fields. Mr. and Mrs. Miller entertained us hospitably in the comfortable par- sonage. And here, as elsewhere in Japan, I found that the modern missionary had the well-deserved respect of his neighbors. At the high school I discoursed by request on higher education, my facile friend Nakamura fur- n 49 n The Days of a Man 1900 nishing the intelligible accompaniment. One serious, preoccupied young fellow, the naturalist Irako, direc- tor of the museum, seemed especially interested, and I wondered if perchance my argument, cooled by interpretation, held some direct appeal for him. In the municipal museum we saw a fine display of red iron j-]-^ industries of Morioka, the local specialty being "red iron" that is, iron with purposely rusted sur- face. We found also a small but noteworthy collec- tion of fishes obtained by Irako in remote parts of Rikuchu from both river and sea; this he divided, giving me three or four species new to science, one of which I afterward named for him. He then showed us a number of accurate sketches and paintings made under his direction by Motokiku, a country boy liv- ing out in the foothills. Motokiku showed decided ability, though he had received no special training and possessed no means Waste of of securing any. Thus does the Japanese caste sys- tem waste native talent. At that time - - and even now, so far as I know to become an artist in Japan one had either to be the son of an artist or be adopted as a pupil, for humble genius has practically no chance. So far as my observation went, each does what he has been brought up to do, and little else. Lines in general are drawn very sharply. Only a porter can carry a trunk; only a fisherman is allowed to draw a net, no matter how small the net or how simple the process. As a rule, therefore, individuals show little ingenuity when faced by new tasks. A boy whose business it is to tie packages will do it very deftly, others most clumsily. Another Japanese limitation is the general unwill- c 50 : 19003 Social Traditions ingness or even inability to form personal judg- ments. Decisions in important matters are almost P s y chol sy always group operations, and even in high places few seem capable of standing alone. All obey orders readily. In the smaller communities an accepted leader, the go-no (head farmer), possesses undefined local power, society not having as yet fully emanci- pated itself from the feudal clan system. This last Abe compared to caste rule among monkeys. It is noticed, he said, that when a male has once whipped his fellow, he remains master for life; no matter how old or weak he may become, the other dares not touch him. So with both daimyo and go-no in relation to their rivals. Among humans, however, the situation is still . further falsified by tradition, which recognizes temporary superiority as a basis of permanent inheritance. The grip of caste among the lower classes is well The grip shown in the rice fields in August, when perhaps a J caste million people are at work in the mud. Of these, three fourths (men and women alike) wear the same ancient garb broad straw hat tied down bonnet fashion, blue shirt, and light blue trousers looking as though their wearer had been melted into them, for it was quite impossible to see how he got them on or off when wet, as they always were - - while on the back a broad, turtle-like shield of woven straw makes known the status of the individual. Men that draw fishing seines use broad hats and mat-like aprons; certain venders of farm products affect garments made almost entirely of straw, so that they look like little wandering haystacks. Such variety lends great picturesqueness to a crowd of Japanese peasants, but binding uniformity within the group must be C 5i 3 The Days of a Man [1900 galling to those who long for some degree of self- extrication. Gracious From the museum we went to a large tea house, hospitality wnere the leading citizens of Morioka were again gathered to meet us. Tea and sweetmeats having been served, the mayor, a bright, active, American- sort of man, made a speech of welcome thanking me for my visit to his humble town, and presenting in the name of the municipality one of Morioka's finest iron kettles, also a kakemono by the noted Kawabata, called Gyokusho or 'Jewel-writer" for his delicate touch. The picture represents a turtle, the symbol of long life, under the full moon. The road northward from Morioka to Aomori on the Straits of Tsugaru winds up through the pretty mountain scenery of Mutsu province, with very noble views from the passes down into the deep, wooded valley of the tortuous Kitakami. Near the summit we saw clearings, "deadenings," and other evidences of frontier life, until, striking another foaming river, we were let down quickly to a rice plain backed by grassy moors and big, shallow lakes. Then, with the coming of darkness, we dimly beheld conical islands rising from out a bay, and - - finally - Aomori itself, where I was again hospitably re- ceived at a mission, this time a Protestant Episcopal one under the direction of Miss Bertha Babcock. Shortly after dawn, fishmarket time, the outside door being still locked, I climbed out of my bedroom window to the admiration of curious neighbors, a Japanese mother and half a dozen partly shaven tots C S^ 3 1900] Aomori Industries and totlings who sat on the tioor thus early at meat, or rather at raw fish, rice, and pickles. On the street I hailed a kuruma, but found the market quite empty. It transrjired that the fishermen were all very busy Vagrant appeasing the spirits of their ancestors, supposed to sovls be abroad in the air for the whole of a sacred week during which no good Buddhist dared kill any back- boned thing for fear some reincarnated forebear might be thus caught and discommoded. The ceremonial rites came at last to an end with a long procession escorting vagrant souls back to the grave- yard. This duty happily accomplished, the men were at our service. But the great salmon catch 1 being over, we had to content ourselves with dried and salted specimens of the three native species, 2 all inferior to the noble salmon of our Pacific Coast. At the museum, however, the naturalist, Sotaro Saito, divided his rich ichthyological spoils with cheerful willingness, thus furnishing me with speci- mens of much value. Aomori's manufactured specialty is tsugaru-nuri, "Fool a handsome, variegated green, black, and red lacquer, lac( i uer " also called baka-nuri, "fool lacquer," because it takes so much pains to prepare it. But the town looks 1 Aomori is the center of the Japanese salmon trade. 2 The shake or sake, identical with the calico salmon of the eastern Pacific Oncorhynchus keta the masu or Japanese Silver Salmon Oncorhynckus masou and the yesosake or black salmon Oncorhynchus yessoensis. The shake, the largest and most important commercially, is of inferior quality as food. The masu is widely distributed, its young yamame being found in all northern streams, and having the habit of a trout, although adults of all three species die after spawning. Everywhere about Aomori and northward abound the izvana Salvelinus pluvius a near relative of the Dolly Varden as also of our Eastern Brook Trout. Around Aomori is also found the rare and peculiar trout known as ito Hucho perryi a long, slim, pike-like fish with black spots, its only relative being the singular Huchen Hucho hue ho of the Danube. No black-spotted true trout of the genus Salmo occurs in Japan, but a large species Salmo mykiss lives in Kamchatka. C 53 H The Days of a Man 1900 rude and poor as compared with those of the south, Clty an appearance mainly produced by the thick walls of the low houses which line the broad streets. One pretty feature is the planting of amaryllis along the ridgepoles; but winter photographs show snow up to the eaves, though the summer vegetation round about is luxuriant and the air is often filled with the delicious odor of some mountain thyme or mint. During our stay I attended a very interesting " teachers' institute " conducted on the American plan, its director being a graduate of Michigan University. Having done all we could at Aomori, we now left the main island for a time, crossing to Hakodate on Hokkaido or Yezo (sixty miles directly north) where we met a very different land fauna. For the Straits of Tsugaru form what is known to zoologists as "Biackis- : 'Blackiston's Line," because Captain T. W. Blackis- ton'sLine" ton fi rst no t e d the fact that the characteristic birds, mammals, and reptiles of Nippon do not cross it; that is, no pheasants, monkeys, snakes, or any of the various typical warm-weather animals are found in Hokkaido. Southern fishes also mostly disappear, but that change is gradual and due solely to the lowered temperature of the water. Hakodate Hakodate, built on a flat isthmus behind its stately, fortified, rocky promontory, is very attrac- tive as seen from an approaching boat. Beyond it to the west stretches a great, circular sweep of bay, the green shore-line overtopped by the Arctic-looking peak of Karasu. The city itself seems crude and new, with broad, straight streets, thick, heavy houses to keep out the winter cold, and roofs covered with shingles instead of the pleasing blue-gray tiles so characteristic of the south. Numerous fur stores C 54 3 Another Frontier Town display beautifully tanned skins, and the vigorous, good-natured people are of a distinctly frontier type. Of foreign settlement there was little trace, although the sign on one of the most conspicuous (and least attractive) of the inns read: YOKOHAMA HOUSE BY HANNABREWER But fish were there in amazing abundance; also they bore, in the mass, a striking resemblance to those of Alaska, for while most of the species are different the same general types prevail. Not content, however, with the spoils of the mar- A big ket, I went over to the rocks off Hakodate Head, where I set a drove of little, naked boys to hunting with dip nets and basket scoops for whatever could there be brought up. I thus secured, at trifling cost, species after species among them a full half- bushel of small blennies, so that my collection of rock-pool fish from Hakodate was the largest ever made anywhere up to that time. Our next stand was Mororan, a frontier city fifty miles still farther to the north. Its landlocked, almost circular harbor opening into Volcano Bay is as smooth as glass, and filled with the clearest, greenest, oiliest of water, through which the unsilted lava floor is seen to be covered with swaying sea wrack. It is, in fact, an ancient crater surrounded by low hills, very green, very wet, and heavily wooded with beech and chestnut. The town rambles dis- jointedly along the rock hook which bounds the harbor, not venturing far from water, perhaps for fear of losing itself in the damp woods and dense underbrush of the background. C 55 1 The Days of a Man 1900 No tide pools were visible, the rocky headlands breaking off vertically; moreover, so heavy a down- pour soon set in that each street became a river, and Mororan had every aspect of complete failure as a collecting station. Snyder therefore proceeded north- westward to Otaru on the Japan Sea, stopping at Sapporo to visit the naturalist, S. Nozawa, at the new government industrial college there, in which Otaki afterward became professor of Fisheries. For An after- myself the only thing apparently worth while was noon off to v i s i t tne little Ainu village of Edomo, four miles away. But it was too damp to walk and the only available horses were wild, unbroken brutes. A boat was then suggested if I didn't mind getting wet. Meanwhile, an Ainu woman with bushy, curly hair and tattooed mustache trotted gayly into town, her tight blue trousers covered with mud - - altogether an amazing freak that made me wish to see more where that one came from. So, buying an oiled-paper blanket and borrowing coat and umbrella, I hired a little sailboat with two fishermen and started out. Edomo Edomo squats on an adobe hillside sloping down to a gravelly beach. Most of its forty dwellings were overgrown by climbing scarlet beans, while all about grew potatoes and maize, rank and tall. [In the north, by the way, they eat "green corn," but never grind the grain into meal, for the usual Japanese stove is a mere box or pan burning only a few twigs at a time, and thus no food which takes long to cook can be utilized.] The few primitive wooden houses belonged to Japanese fishermen. The huts of the Ainus are made of_ rye-straw, walls and roof alike, and consist each of one large room in the center of E 56 3 AINU VILLAGE NEAR SAPPORO AINUS AT SAPPORO The Ainu Home which a struggling fire burns constantly as in an American Indian wigwam, the smoke escaping through a hole in the roof. 1 Along the wall on every side hang household effects, gala robes of red or blue calico with a large, white, angular design, knives, guns, and smoked fish, while about the fire dry shrinking sea-cucumbers, sea-urchins, salmon, her- ring, and dogfish. The largest cabin belonged to the chief of the vil- The chief lage, a big man with gray patriarchal beard- -a andhis veritable King Lear so far as beard and bearing go. At superficial glance, he seemed a replica of Joaquin Miller, a sweet liquid voice characteristic of his tribe emphasizing the resemblance. Then one saw that his complexion was dark, his arms and legs were almost as hairy as a bear's, he had fawn-like, hazel eyes and a short, weak nose below a high forehead. His robust, stolid, silent, and muscular daughter, a rosy, dull-eyed girl of eighteen, he ordered about energetically. In silence on the floor by the fire sat a youth of about twenty-two, with the characteristic bushy black hair but smooth-shaven face - - appar- ently not having reached his majority. To be recog- nized as a man, I was told, an Ainu lad must first kill his bear, and the Hokkaido bear is very large and powerful, being cousin to our Grizzly. As we entered, the chief bowed to the floor in great Official deference, after which I sat down by the fire with the wekonu family. He now began a long and eloquent speech; of this I understood not a word, but interpreted it as in a vein of tribal humility, with grateful recognition of the honor of my visit, followed by much philoso- 1 According to students of architecture these one-roomed structures seem to have been the prototype of the modern Japanese house, divided not by per- manent partitions but at will by sliding screens. : 57 3 "The Days of a Man 1900 phizing on things in general. For twenty minutes we listened to the steady stream, until, during a mo- ment's pause for breath, a cat crossed the floor and joined us at the fire. Whereupon I remarked "neko," the Japanese word for cat, a simple move which tended to check the swelling current of oratory. I next pointed to his daughter, saying "musume," maiden. This brought him down from the clouds, and he turned to common things, trying to discuss the weather with my boatmen, who, like myself, knew not a word of Ainu. In the other huts I entered to pay my respects, the men were also at home; these, though younger than the chief, with long, black, curly hair and patriarchal beards, had the same weak nose and brown, appealing eyes. But not another soul said a word in my pres- ence, and the children would neither play with me nor respond in any way to my advances. Most of the women were busy picking over sea- urchins, the eggs of which they save as food. The married ones all show the outline of a black mustache tattooed on the upper lip, a custom the Japanese have tried to discourage. But despite that disfiguring mark, some of the younger wives were handsome in a sad, sallow way, and the girls seemed healthy and vigorous. The Japanese order them all about merci- lessly, however, and it is evident that they regard their rulers as superior beings, in spite of their own greater size and physical strength as well as more imposing appearance. According to ethnological theory, the Ainus are a branch of the Aryan race, belonging to the group vaguely known as Turanian and remotely allied to the tribes of the Caucasus; indeed, they may perhaps n 58 3 1900] Pro P atria not have diverged far from the primitive, patriarchal type of the modern Caucasian. In earlier days they occupied not only Hokkaido but most of the main mvaders island and Kyushyu as well, from which regions they were driven out and back by the invading hosts of the Yamato tribe of the west. From those long-headed, relatively white people are descended the present aristocratic strains of Japan, and there is some evidence derived from ancient paintings and statuettes that they too were Aryans allied to the Greeks, though since mixed with Chinese and Malay elements, and farther north, with Manchus. 1 But the prehistoric Ainus evidently made a vigor- Ainu ous defense against the invaders, for the word he " outpost" appears in the names of various north- ern towns, marking each Yamato advance. Thus Ichinohe is "first stand" or outpost; Sannohe, ''third stand"; Shichinohe, "seventh stand"; Hack- inohe, "eighth stand"; all being towns in the piov- ince of Mutsu, of which Aomori is chief city. So it seems to me (who have made some study of such matters) that continued conflict must have destroyed the independent and aggressive elements among the Ainus, leaving only the inert and submissive to father succeeding generations. In any case, the 20,000 or more that now remain, gentle, idle, and given to drink, comprise a failing race unable to hold its own against Japanese competition. In Japan I was asked whether I thought it best to have them cared for by the state, ultimately to dis- appear of sheer inanition, or to allow them to shift 1 According to Dr. Hara the testimony as to Aryan relationship is not conclusive. "That the Japanese race is far from homogeneous is absolutely certain, but whence the Yamatos came and when they reached the islands no one knows." C 59 3 The Days of a Ma?i 1900 for themselves and thus die of drink and general problem ficult misery --not an easy question to answer. Having tried both methods- -public support and persistent neglect - - on our own aborigines through "a century of dishonor," we Americans can hardly say which of the two is the more disastrous! Edomo was my "farthest north," and I turned back to Mororan with the feeling that "'summer is over and the wild goose flies south." Meanwhile Otaki, never idle, had found a boy with a rude dredge which could be used to scrape the bottom; as a forlorn hope we went out with him. The result Crowded was most surprising. The sea-wrack was crowded sea-wrack w i tn lif^ an( J we soon g Qt a bucketful of little blennies, four of them new to science. The next day, in Hakodate, I met the only incivility I ever encountered in Japan. Presuming on the unfailing good nature of the market people (as I had often done before), I took up an empty tray from a pile near by, to carry some specimens to the stall where I had left those previously selected. But be- fore I had gone far a young fellow came along, savagely yanked the tray out of my hands while I tried to explain, and threw the fishes into the air in furious rage. This outburst plainly shocked the other folk, who deferentially picked up everything, without a word, and put them on a fresh tray. From Hakodate we once more crossed the pic- turesque Straits of Tsugaru, stopping at Aomori only long enough to visit - - under Miss Babcock's guid- ance - - the home of a deceased daimyo, some of I 60 3 new 19003 Fruit Culture in Japan whose treasures were being sold. There I secured three ancient mirrors of polished steel, highly valued before the ingenious West sent glass and quick- silver to Japan. Farther on we tarried for a day at the little city of Hachinohe and at Same, its port, a pretty watering place near the northeast corner of Nippon. Here we found much of scientific interest, but were soon on the back track toward Morioka and Sendai. From A time to time along the road I saw evidence of the industr y spread of fruit culture, hitherto neglected in Japan. Cherries, plums, peaches, and quinces had of course long been cultivated for beauty, and by artificial selection developed into numerous varieties bearing exquisite flowers though little or no fruit, and not much of food value. But we now noticed many excellent orchards of apples and pears - - especially about Morioka - - and the familiar Red Astrachan was already ripe. In the new Agricultural College at Sapporo, various kinds of northern fruits, largely American, were being tested as to their fitness for Japanese conditions. In the Kyoto region similar efforts had developed large f rul ' and finely flavored peaches and plums, the best of both having blood-red flesh. Widespread throughout the country was also an excellent native grape, slip- skinned like the American species, and resembling the Catawba in flavor. In the south, however, the chief fruit was the deliciously acid loquat, locally known as biwa, and a bitterish shaddock allied to our mis- named "grapefruit." I was, however, strongly impressed with the amount of waste land in northern Japan - - that is, districts not suited to rice, prac- tically the only crop generally cultivated. Agriculture C 61 H cious ruits The Days of a Man there means one thing only uplands being ter- ture raced for rice, lowlands flooded for rice, rivers blocked practically . ' r i 11 i limited to to give standing water tor rice, and all waste products rice and night soils used as manure for rice. Here and there cattle are raised in a small way, occasionally horses, and one Gees many gardens in which beans, potatoes, sweet potatoes, maize, taro, lily, eggplant, and onions are grown, besides ponds for the cultiva- tion of the wholesome lotus root; yet these are all side issues, not staples. By tradition, also, the hilly lands of Mutsu and Rikuchu are allowed to grow up to pic- turesque thickets of brush and coarse grasses; given over to sheep they might be made profitable, though their wild beauty would then vanish. In cattle they could not be made to pay, because Asia as yet offers scant markets for butter, cheese, or beef. Local From the train I noted the bluebells, tiger lilies, and white lilies of the woods, and sometimes on the housetops the day lily of the river bottoms - - Hemero- callis blooming with Amaryllis along a ridgepole above the thatch of straw. The forests were largely of chestnut. In the thickets grew many willows, as well as wild grapes, a red-flowered Spircea, Ly thrum, Lysimachia, and a Viburnum with showy false flowers like our own witch-hobble. Bittersweet vines Celastrum dangled their scarlet berries over the trees, and the fine-leaved maple, beloved by the Japanese, was already beginning to flame. "Manners Picking up 3. provincial magazine supposed to be in English, I found a discussion as to whether a "zen- tureman" is known by dress and expenditures, or by morals and manners, the conclusion reached being identical with that of Winchester College a thousand years ago "Manners makyth man/' The same C 62 n man yapanese English magazine solicited articles in English, the editor cor- recting all errors, in brackets. Some of these con- tributions were very funny, especially a criticism of one Sanda of Kobe who "apes foreign dress and man- ners," and who found somewhere "an Onion" of like disposition who knew enough English to say "I think so," after which they were married in foreign dress and style, - conduct regarded by the author as highly absurd. Yet it is plain that however eager Japanese stu- dents may be to acquire pure English, the people at large are building up a dialect of their own which mainly dispenses with the definite article and the plural form. This new speech, moreover, recognizes no distinction between r and / - - the latter being wanting in Japanese and the system of accent is peculiarly its own. Nevertheless, in the matter of simplification the result is not comparable to the 'pidgin English" of China or the "Chinook jargon" of our own Northwest. The Japanese sense of humor is very strong, no Japanese type or class (the Mikado excepted) being exempt kumor from ridicule. According to Uesugi, the foibles of the country aristocracy often supply material for sar- casm, and in this connection he related two stories current about Sendai. It seems that the flounder or sand dab karei colored dark brown on the right side, white on the left, is ordinarily served white side up. By tradition in one noble house, however, the custom was reversed, the dark side being always exposed. A certain daimyo having been invited to dine with "the Blacks," afterward waxed eloquent at home about the flounder with which he had been regaled so much better than those he was accus- n 6 3 3 The Days of a Man 1*900 tomed to. Thenceforth, he ordered, only black ones should appear on his own table. This same man had a spendthrift nephew who tried to borrow money of him. But the young fellow smoked a gold pipe, a thing the daimyo said he could not himself afford, and he would lend no more money to such a wastrel. 'But a gold pipe lasts for years," pleaded the young swell. 'What, you don't smoke the same one twice, do you?' asked the horrified Poor uncle. For while his own pipes were brass, and rela- tively cheap, he took a fresh one for each round. Approaching Sendai on our return, I received a telegram from the mayor asking me to spend the evening with him and the council in a discussion as to ; 'how to make Sendai a better city." We thus sat together on a large open veranda, comfortably cool in spite of the hot evening, but attacked by scores of the big, aggressive mosquito of the north. This carries no malaria, but is unfortunately a nuisance the people can hardly hope to abate in that land of heavy summer rains and ubiquitous standing pools. The sage Hayakawa, the town sage, acted as spokesman. I n suggestive and dignified remarks, he compared Japan to a boy brought up in the backwoods but now come to his majority and realizing how much was to be learned before he could take his proper place in society. America seemed like an older brother, already experienced and willing to help. The Japan- ese in California, he said, must have been unworthy, otherwise there would not be a great outcry against them. He therefore hoped that only men of char- acter would go to America in the future, not those who discredit their race; he evidently saw no reason why C 64 ] 19003 America as Japan s Best Friend clean, orderly, home-loving laborers should not be welcome anywhere. Hayakawa's almost romantic attitude toward our country then expressed the general feeling of the people at large. For this there were several patent reasons. It was the United States which in 1854 OUT opened Japan to a knowledge of the West, and thus helping hastened the downfall of the outworn feudal system and the dual rule of shogun and mikado. Americans established the Japanese school system and helped found the great Imperial University at Tokyo. Shortly before my visit, also, our government had brought about the abandonment of foreign jurisdic- tion in the treaty ports. To Japan, America was still her best friend among the nations, her guide and leader in new and strange paths. Furthermore, the lesson of the Shimonoseki inci- The dent of 1863 was universally recognized by the Sh on - T T- 1 11 I 1 A Sekl a $ alr Japanese. Every schoolboy knew the story. A number of foreign trading ships Dutch, French, and American passing through the Inland Sea to China, having been fired on in turn in the narrows, some seventeen of them afterward reappeared led by a British man-of-war, which then bombarded the fort and town of Shimonoseki in reprisal. Three million dollars of indemnity were also demanded and divided among the four Powers. But later investi- gation having shown that our vessel had not been harmed and that the blame was not all on one side, 1 *In this case the Japanese government first disclaimed responsibility for the attack, asserting that the fault lay entirely with the Prince of Choshu, the province in which Shimonoseki is situated. To that plea the Powers naturally turned a deaf ear. They knew no Prince of Choshu and would deal with Japan only, holding the central government responsible for all acts of its vassals. To break up the authority of refractory daimyos centralization was later adopted in Japan, provincial autonomy being abrogated and the country divided into : 6 5 3 The Days of a Man 1900 the United States returned its share to Japan. Such a chivalrous action, never before known in inter- national experience, at once placed the United States in a class apart. And that happy precedent was subsequently followed by us in connection with the egregious indemnity exacted by the allies after the Boxer uprising, when our portion was devoted to the education of Chinese youth in American univer- sities. Gram The modest behavior of General Grant on his visit MHO to J a P an a ^ so i m P resse d the people strongly. At Nikko he was invited to use the sacred red bridge- akahashi spanning the river Daiya and leading to the Mikado's palace. But as only members of the imperial family were ever before allowed to cross it, Grant declined with thanks, saying that he was just a common man and wanted no special privilege. Responding to Hayakawa, I said some pleasant things about the country as a whole and of Sendai itself, the best-kept city of its size in Japan. I then made a number of small suggestions, but laid con- siderable stress on the cigarette evil among the boys. This criticism evidently had its effect on my hearers, for, as I was told, the council afterward passed an ordinance limiting the sale of cigarettes to minors, and a "Jordan Club" was formed in the interest of clean living. During the evening a sturdy lad named Gensuke Abe, the son of a poor woman of the samurai class, widowed by the Chinese War, came in from the smaller judicial districts or ken. Exactly the same policy, for a similar reason the development of nationalistic patriotism as against local feuds was im- posed on France after the Revolution; in both cases the final result has been unfortunate, concentrating politics at the capital, and strengthening military and financial control at the expense of civil liberty. c 66 3 1900] Torrential Rain country bringing me a basket of apples. This created a generally favorable impression, and after some dis- & enerostt y cussion the gentlemen present decided to send the boy to America to be educated, for which purpose they themselves started a subscription. In due time, therefore, he accompanied me to San Francisco, where he entered a high school, becoming ultimately a merchant in Monterey. In the course of the night following our conference Sendai was deluged by a tremendous rainfall, fairly a cloudburst, which raised the river to an unprece- dented height, so that the swollen waters carried away all the bridges over its fifty-foot gorge. Leav- ing next morning, we were accordingly compelled to make a long detour to catch the train from the south which, unable to proceed farther, turned back toward Tokyo. It then took us till eight o'clock in the evening to reach Nikko, our destination. The rain still fell in sheets, and the two-mile ride to the Hotel Arai up and down hill by the side of a turbulent torrent and through a dark avenue of cryptomeria trees was weird in the extreme, because one caught only casual glimpses of things, while the roar of the invisible river sounded always in the ear. To add to the confusion, my two kuruma men engaged "Cussing in a noisy dispute and the leader poured out savage onthe J , . , T . . to upgrades utterances which 1 took to be cussing on the up grades," until by and by the pusher insisted on changing places, after which we whirled along swiftly. The next morning was intensely clear, and for the first time in our experience the central range of Japan stood revealed free from mist. The prospect seemed C 67 ] The Days of a Man 1900 Of for too alluring to admit of delay. Accompanied by a ! hts wide-faced, muscular, amiable youth with an ex- pansive smile which spread all over his face like sun- rise on a lake, we now started for the heights, I on a stout, good-natured pony whose only vice was a constitutional reluctance to be mounted, at least by me! My idea was to pursue the brawling Daiya River to its lair. We therefore followed close along the north bank all the way, at first over a broad road, then by wooded trails far into the mountains. From the end of the highway (where our path diverged) ran a narrow track of iron rails, up which we saw lumbering bullocks of infinite slowness haul cargoes of coal for the great copper mines and smel- ters of Ashio over the pass to the southward. We next came to a tumbling tributary with its hidden Urami Fall, beyond which one has a view of the Sacred broad side of the great peak of Nantai-san, a very sacred mountain which no woman is allowed to climb, so careful are we men of the fine points of religion! Nantai-san is an arched backbone of red lava, its evenly sloping sides densely carpeted with firs, the dark green of which is broken and enlivened by a few colorful slides bare of all vegetation. Higher up we crossed two or three streams splash- ing down from the sacred mount, then climbed by many steep zigzags through noble forests affording fine views of the gorge we were leaving far below. The Most interesting woods these were - - tall crypto- lotan'is" me rias, majestic beeches with every grace of bole and " instep," oaks, birches, arbor-vitae, and larch, with alders, elders, dogwood, and other small trees of the north, besides azaleas big and little, then unfortu- nately out of bloom, witch-hazel, witch-hobble, C 68 ] 19003 A Glorious Ride prickly ash, and a thorny aralia like our ''Hercules Club." Abundant club-mosses trailed up the sides of the trees, not creeping along the ground as in our forests. Black raspberries were plentiful, but my pony objected to berry picking and made it a long task to mount; as Rafinesque once observed, "horses do not suit botanists." I noticed a goldenrod with two long ray flowers only, and two species of touch- me-not, the one yellow, the other light purple. There was also a quaint little crown-imperial with creamy petals tiger-spotted like an orchid. From the top of the ridge the Daiya plunges 290 feet down the narrow and vertical Kegon Fall, the most admired of Japanese cascades, though perhaps too symmetrical for the occidental taste. Its black lava cliffs are beautifully overhung with vegetation, and close behind it lies the placid Lake Chuzenji surrounded by steep forest-clad mountains, delightful from every point of view. Originally Chuzenji held no fish, the Kegon shutting them off effectually, but several kinds of trout and landlocked salmon have been introduced there in recent times. At the little Komeya Inn they served an excellent tiffin of beef- steak and onions, with curry and rice. The bill of fare, however, read as follows: Bif Tek an Oneona Kuri an hiz Out of Chuzenji the trail for some distance threads the handsome forest which skirts the lake. But at the mouth of the inlet of Jigoku (Hell) River, enter- ing at a right angle, we turned northward along the banks of the stream which foams down from the noted Ryuzu or Dragon Head Fall, a promiscuous Lacy cascade of white lace interspersed with green pools. Ryuzu C 69 ] The Days of a Man 1900 A Farther up we emerged on the "moor of the red flower plain flowery se dges " 1 locally known as "battle meadow," though no battle was ever fought there a breezy, open, flower-strewn plain walled in by green moun- tains of the same type as Nantai-san, which, being nearest and highest, overtops the rest. Azaleas, lilies, and iris were all out of bloom, but a purple and yellow columbine, loosestrife, grass of Parnassus, and wild sweet pea abounded. The many ferns were even more like ours, especially the maidenhair: at the 'Komeya" they thought it a great joke when I called this musumenoke, "hair of a girl." By the head of the moor amid the tall red grasses, the river drops suddenly from a higher level in the pretty Yu-no-taki, Hot Falls, 200 feet high, slipping with hardly a break down a lava incline. Above, our path wound through a flowery, briery thicket to the dainty lake of Yumoto, Hot Water Ground, a small and its replica of Chuzenji, just as blue and walled in by the ings same sort of wooded heights. Indeed, at first there seems no room for lake, so closely do the mountains hug the little valley. One of these, the volcano Shirane-san, still erupts at intervals, not having yet reached its majority. The slopes of its broken crater are bare and red, and its uncooled lavas apparently furnish heat for the many hot sulphur springs at the head of the lake. To Yumoto village, composed of primitive hotels and bathhouses, unconventional country folk resort during "the season." Next day we turned back to Nikko with its mar- velous temples devoted to the deified spirits of the two great Tokugawa shoguns, lyeyasu and lyemitsu, 1 Really red rice grass, not a sedge. C 70 3 i 9 oo] Nikko Glories to whose silent sepulchers these triumphantly gor- geous shrines form the approach. Set on a steep hillside against a somber forest of huge Cryptomeria trees, very straight and tall like our coast redwoods, they are overpowering in their riot of color and design. Truly, as the old Japanese proverb puts it: Until you have seen Nikko Never say magnificent! l Throughout these edifices wood is practically con- Riotous verted into ornament - - line, structure, and mass ornament seeming to serve merely as accessories to an amazing pictorial exuberance of red, gold, and black lacquers. Architecturally, therefore, the Nikko temples are said to fall short of consummate achievement. But of this I myself am not a judge. Nor shall I try to give the reader any further impression of this unpar- alleled memorial to passing glory. According to Otaki the real purpose underlying the social grandeur of Nikko was "to keep the people both strate sy busy and poor." Can it be that imperishable monu- ments in some other lands had similar reason for being? Self-interest at least played some part even in cathedral building, and Ulrich von Hutten asserted that from those structures "the stones wandered by night to the palaces of the Medici." 5 On our final lap toward Tokyo, we stopped by special invitation to meet the teachers of Utsunomiya. Arriving there at noon, we were escorted by a group of city fathers to the official hall, where we found 1 Nikko wo minai uchi wa Kckko to iu na. i: 71 3 The Days of a Man Address- the governor and all the educational corps awaiting mg the us After the customary round of tea, I spoke on the teachers of , . . J n i , , . Utsuno- need or higher education, my talk being duly inter- preted by Toyama, a graduate of Syracuse Univer- sity, a ready speaker who apparently made a favor- able impression. But the good manners of the people rendered them reverently impassive. As usual, few women were present and those that came sat apart, though paying strict attention. Among the audience I noticed the same types we see in America; many of the men had the earnest, beseeching expression which would proclaim them school teachers even on the Sahara Desert! At Tokyo I left Snyder to watch the markets, and started myself for Misaki, seat of the Seaside Station of the Imperial University. The railroad ends at Yokosuka, home of the famous English pilot, Will Adams, who found his way into this mysterious country at the beginning of the seventeenth century. Yokosuka lies on a blue bay with pretty little beaches separated by cliffs of sharply stratified rock broken by numerous small faults, pocket examples of earth- quake rifts. Here I made a bargain with three men to take me and my luggage to Misaki, ten miles away, for the modest sum of four yen. Meanwhile, I sought out the Mitomi Hotel, boasting a "foreign room" where at a long table one may regale himself on the sour, half-baked bread and rancid butter which, with beer, are thought to be the delight of the foreigner. But refusing these alien luxuries, I called for something substantial. The stolid maid failed to understand, however, until I assisted her by add- ing suitable terminations to my English nouns, upon which bifiteki and Jraidifishi were soon forthcoming. C 72 3 19003 On the Road to Misaki But my preference for mizu (water) over beer seemed My to be wholly outside her experience, and I could not stra s' i i i i i \ r preference induce her to bring it except in a washbasin. After- ward, to the gracious mistress of the house, who was eager to talk, one word America-jin explained all my eccentricities. Leaving Yokosuka in due time, we bowled swiftly along an excellent road toward Misaki. As we passed through a village by the sea and entered a little wood the trees seemed alive with birds calling Kurihama to each other, quail-fashion, something that sounded " birds " like " o-peep, o-peep." Not being able to catch a glimpse of them, I asked my men what they were. They didn't seem to understand but finally answered kurihama, literally "chestnut shore," a name appar- ently not very applicable. But as the accretions of centuries have given most short Japanese words a dozen meanings, hama to my mind could well be a little bird. A few days later I heard the same noisy calls from again invisible kurihama and asked about them. Mitsukuri was much puzzled; there was no such bird, he said, and he himself heard no bird at all. Finally I learned that my songsters were cicadas of a familiar local species. Kurihama, it transpired, is the name of the village where I first heard them. It Perry at was, moreover, the scene of Perry's meeting with the KuTlhama representative of the Shogunate, the turning point in the modern history of Japan, and a monument commemorating the event was to be dedicated there in 1901, fifty years later. To this I was glad to con- tribute. Another Japanese cicada seemed equally numer- ous and insistent, though no one would take it for a bird. Starting in loudly with "bees, bees, bees, bees," I 73 II The Days of a Man 1900 it soon grows discouraged and drops down to a long- drawn-out "beeeeeeeeeeees" It thus seemed to begin by claiming beehood, but faced by an incredulous Not a world to grow less insistent and finally to abandon the effort. The Japanese, however, hear it as "mi, mi, mi, mimimi" For some distance our way led through fishing villages which straggled along the shore, then up the backbone of Misaki peninsula, from which we caught beautiful glimpses of deep arms of the sea to the south, and of Fuji on the north. On down grades the pusher exhorted the leader to caution by a remark- able ejaculation on which he rang many changes: ''io, io, ori, OKI, O!" At Koajiro, nestling on a nar- row, green, fjord-like bay, the road was lined with Holiday people in holiday attire, and I wondered how the Marine Laboratory could attract such a varied crowd of visitors. We therefore pushed on half skeptically, but at last, by a deep fjord apparently enclosed like a pond in the woods, saw two white buildings and knew that our destination lay before us. Mitsukuri was there at work with several others, including Bashford Dean of Columbia University, engaged on problems in shark morphology. Dr. and Mrs. Dean at once welcomed me to their comfortable cottage, where my belongings were speedily installed. A little But when I paid the kuruma men, they still stayed about, addressing me politely though with evident earnestness, so that I asked one of the professors what it all meant. He replied that they were con- gratulating me on the fine day, the pleasant trip, and so on. The talk continued, however, until he finally said they wanted another yen. 'The roads had been slippery, he was 'badly loaded' -that is, C 74 3 19003 Equity as against Contract heavy - - and although an extra man had been pro- vided, it was still a hard pull." The demand seem- ing entirely reasonable, I promptly met it. That incident illustrated two typically Japanese Typical traits. In the first place, the professor hoped to get traiis the men away and save embarrassment; he thus equivocated at the outset, and would very likely have paid the extra yen himself. Secondly, by tra- dition, equity takes precedence over contract; it was fair that I should pay more, hence quite proper to ask for it notwithstanding our agreement. This latter point of view, characteristic of old Certain Japan, explains why the system of deferred payments hl ^ onc ' 1-1 11 i M N 1 differences or credit (on which world commerce is built) took no root there, although in China it constitutes the very foundation of business. And certain discrepancies in Japanese commercial affairs arise out of the clash between two radically different methods. Another element to be considered is a purely social one. Under the feudal system, traders found their place near the bottom of the series, only a little above the despised eta or outcast; a samurai, the soul of personal honor, never descended to barter or trade. It took years, therefore, for any merchant to gain respect, even self- respect. To remedy these conditions and to bring his nation into line, the far-seeing Baron (now Viscount) Shibusawa some years ago established, with others, the University of Commerce of Tokyo, the scholarly Baron Kanda being its leading teacher. But I am here reminded of an experience not without pertinence in this connection. Needing an additional stock of formaldehyde for our work about Osaka, I went over to an English pharmacy in the neighboring city of Kobe. There, however, the C 75 3 The Days of a Man 11900 dealer wanted to ask me four yen - - two dollars - - a pound, stating that he paid three yen himself, though the usual price of the article in America was only forty cents a pound. I then returned to Osaka, and entering a native pharmacy, without saying a word I picked out the necessary amount and laid down a considerable sum of money before the proprietor. Native Charging me at the rate of a yen a pound, he returned honesty ^fa proper change. And from one end of Japan to the other I did not meet a single case of overcharge or extortion, nor for that matter, outside the narrow beaten path, did I find a servant who asked or ex- pected a tip. The level shelf on which the Station stands having been the site of the ancient castle of the daimyo of Arai, its three-hundred-year-old basement, cut hori- zontally into the cliff, serves as laboratory cellar. In his fastness, according to tradition, the old prince was Breaking once hopelessly besieged. Despairing at last, he mounted the hill, cut off his head, and by supreme effort threw it as far as possible, even unto Odawara twenty miles away on the other side of Sagami Bay! The holiday throng had come to attend a celebration in honor of their stalwart old hero. This consisted of religious services on the beach, accompanied by a series of wrestling matches, the specialty of rustic Japan. Next morning I rose very early, the monotonous "yo-shi, yo-shi" 1 of the fishermen pulling at the nets having called me to be up and doing. Out on the rocks, at low tide, various little gobies and blennies waited to be caught, but instead I was rowed to 1 Short for "yoroshii, yoroshii," "all right, all right." c 76 n 19003 A Rich Yield where the boys from Professor Matsubara's Fisheries Institute, near by, were hauling a large seine. Meanwhile Mitsukuri had deputed his special man, Kumakichi Aoki, noted among naturalists, to work Aokl everywhere in my interest. :< Kuma" was a fine- looking fellow of thirty-five, prosperous and very intelligent, a master fisherman who knew the scien- tific names of most species, though having little to do with books. With him on the job I returned to the laboratory for the day, while boatloads of fish were brought in at intervals for me to pick over. In the clear, green coves, rock-walled and weed-carpeted, lived many things of interest, about twenty-five new species in all. And from Misaki I recorded 220 dif- ferent kinds during my two days' stay, more than the same length of time has yielded anywhere else in Japan, even at Wakanoura. The second day dawned clear and bright. Enoshima stood out sharp against glassy Sagami, while beyond rose peerless Fujiyama. It was now decided that We start, Mitsukuri and I should go out deep-sea fishing, with ^T. daibunawa lines a thousand feet long, at Okinose, midway between Misaki and the tall, smoking vol- cano island of Oshima, 1 visible from the ocean quite as far as Fuji. We set out accordingly, but though the surface was oily, the swells grew higher and higher, and I soon asked to be landed on Joga Island, leaving Kuma and his men to work the lines outside. Jogashima is fringed by a broad, bare shelf gouged Beautiful into tide pools teeming with life - - corals, sea-anem- p l * on ones, corallines, red and green algae, and swarms of >On European maps "Vries Island," a name given long ago by Dutch traders. But no Japanese knows "Vries Island" any more than "Susquehanna Bay" and "Mississippi Bay" in the Gulf of Tokyo, named by Perry for his ships. C77 3 The Days of a Ma?i 1900 little fishes. Among them we found the young of several tropical forms swept up from farther south by the Kuro Shio. One basin, 30 by 20, and 10 feet deep, was the most beautiful aquarium I ever saw, and only the rising tide drove us back to Misaki. "Old To Joga during feudal times old women were ban- LadieS ished when no longer socially useful: a mountain Homes . , J station near Karuizawa, 1 may add, was once set apart for the same pious purpose! During the afternoon I visited the fishermen's wharf, finding there a varied assortment which in- cluded many tunnies - - among them "leaping tunas" and yellow-fin albacore very like those of Santa Catalina Island. Most notable of the large forms were two new species of spearfish, one of which I later found to be rather common about Catalina, where anglers call it the "marlinspike fish." 1 Both forms were over twenty feet long, and as I set about to measure them accurately the men looked very doubtful, fearing some untoward result from my incomprehensible incantations. The in- Kuma now brought in the biggest hook-and-line rawf 2 " ca tch m the whole history of science, including nu- fisherman merous kinds hitherto known only from deep-sea dredging in the same waters by the British research steamer, Challenger. One new thing was a diminu- tive, jet-black shark - - a foot long - - with luminous patches on the side; this I called Etmopterus lucifer. (The following year Peter Schmidt, a Russian natu- ralist who was visiting Misaki, made a drawing of a live specimen by the light the fish itself gave out in the dark.) Big crimson and purple rock cod crowded the wharf. As I went at these eagerly, Kuma ex- 1 Named by me Tetrapturus mitsukurii. n 78 n 19003 Factors in Education plained that they were only duplicates, a great series having been already put in formalin for me. Never- theless, I insisted that nothing new should be thrown away, and into formalin all must go! Our trip now drew rapidly to a close. In Tokyo I spent one day with Ishikawa in the Imperial Museum at Ueno Park, where I found still more new species. I also spoke to the city teachers on "What Japan May Learn from the Educational Experience of America." Among other things I asserted that Japan had yet to recognize the value of individual initiative and personal adequacy in education; that justice is more important than courtesy; that the cure for delinquency is found not in rules but in strengthening the moral backbone of the pupil; that women must be trained if homes are to be centers of culture and purity; and that the final end of education is not Service learning or official position, but service to humanity. the fi nal I also emphasized the value of physical training, it training being a tradition in intellectual Japan to regard the body as of little worth compared with the mind or soul. Otaki translated my talk with a good deal of spirit and emphasis. But his remark afterward, "I put in some licks of my own, too," left me a little uncer- tain as to what I had really said to my audience! In token of their appreciation, however, they later An presented me with a beautiful jubako (lunch box) of e *.'f* isitl gold-spotted or "pearskin" lacquer, once the prop- erty of a rich merchant and dating from 1688, - - its age and history duly certified by the head of the Tokyo School of Fine Arts. For ornamentation it bears the seven flowers of autumn- -chrysanthemum, bluebell, lupine, nightshade, goldenrod, rice grass, and bush clover. C 79 3 The Days of a Man [1900 My only other formal address on Education was given at the dedication of the Women's College just founded under the presidency of Dr. Jinzo Naruse. On this occasion I dealt particularly with society's need of educated women. The chief remaining episode was a dinner given by Snyder and me at the Imperial Hotel to the Japanese Some graduates of Stanford and their wives. Gentle Mrs. Japanese Qtaki was the first to arrive. Next came demure and girlish Mrs. Abe, saying nothing but occasionally letting her eyes snap so that one felt sure she would talk after she got home. Mrs. Kokubo, tall and severely plain with hair combed tightly back, was every inch a school teacher, yet no less punctilious than the others when the time came to enter the dining room. All, indeed, stood long on the order of their going, and we almost reached an impasse when no one seemed willing to take precedence. In the end I settled the matter by offering my arm to Madame Kambe, the very pretty wife of Junzaburo Takagi, who had taken her name on marriage. She Punctilio spoke French well, and had been carefully trained in foreign music, which she both sang and played; of these accomplishments she spoke with modest en- thusiasm, saying that her voice was "assez faible." All the women were carefully dressed in gray silk, with ornate obi or girdle, the most expensive item in the native costume, though Madame Kambe's kimono was hand-painted. At Abe's insistence they were seated together on the same side of the table, where they listened in respectful silence to their husbands' after-dinner speeches. In conclusion we organized the Stanford Advisory Council of Japan (an outgrowth of the earlier tentative association) with 19003 Student Disciples Otaki as president, Abe and Spooner as secretaries, and Mitsukuri and Schneder as honorary advisers. Leaving Yokohama the following day on the Nippon Maru, we were accompanied by three youths bound for Stanford Abe of Sendai, Eitaro lijima of Niigata, and Masashi Yoshimi of Yamaguchi. At Honolulu this group was augmented by Yakano- suke Fukukita, a favorite pupil of Miss Fujii, a well- known Japanese teacher there. lijima, a student in Economics at the Imperial University, had called one evening with a notebook full of choice English and German quotations, occa- sionally fragmentary, as in the following: i "The way to dusty Death." Shakespeare. The book also contained an outline of the conversa- tion he planned to have with me; unfortunately, however, when the time came he forgot all his fine phrases. Eleven years later I found him a customs official in Korea, where he afterward became a mine manager. Yoshimi, a country scnool teacher, had sent me his Curriculum Vitce, expressing a deep desire to go to Stanford in spite of serious lack of money. A quick-witted and willing fellow knowing some Eng- lish, he cooked his way through, but did not long sur- vive graduation. Fukukita developed into an accom- plished English student, assistant to Dr. Fluegel on the Chaucer Dictionary. In 1911 we found him interpreter for the American Embassy at Tokyo; he is at present serving as secretary to a great busi- ness corporation. On the boat I discovered my two monkeys, faith- fully sent up from Nagasaki according to the arrange- C 81 3 to Japan The Days of a Man 1900 ment of many weeks before. Tied to the railing of the ship, they were a source of endless interest to the passengers, the children especially. One day, how- ever, the male broke loose. Refusing to be caught, he climbed to the top of the smokestack and clung there like grim death till morning, when, hungry and subdued, he came back to his tether. At noon the great white ship moved majestically out through the smooth waters. The air being clear, I traced as they filed past Yokosuka, Uraga, Kuri- hama, then the long promontory of Misaki with her outlying lighthouse on Jogashima slowly dropping below the horizon. Fuji was more than half hidden by clouds; its profile, barely suggested, faded slowly into mist. On the other side the fishing towns and green hills of Boshu grew dim with the rest, and finally, smoking Oshima - - far out receded into happy memory. n 82 3 CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT BUT the joy of my successful summer in Japan was soon turned to deepest mourning. At Honolulu I received a letter from Mrs. Jordan saying that Barbara was ill with scarlet fever - - very disquieting news as I remembered the treacherous nature of that malady, so often followed by insidious sequels. Arrived at Angel Island quarantine station, I found myself treated with unusual consideration by the officials, who furnished a special launch to take me to San Francisco. I was now joined by a friendly physician from our neighborhood, who, when we reached the city, informed me that Barbara was dead ! This was the most crushing blow that ever befell my wife or me; the brightest light had gone out of our lives. As I write today after twenty years, the wound seems as deep as yesterday. Barbara was our A child joy and hope, for she united all that was finest in her mother and the best in me, without any of the dross. She had Jessie's dark eyes, fine features, and warm coloring, her quick apprehension, critical mind, and delight in all lovely things. From me she inherited in full measure the power of immediate and accurate grasp of details in Natural History, and although no special effort was made to teach her, she knew all the land birds of California, and had in one way or another gathered a choice collection of skins. At the same time, recognizing my pleasure in her bent for nature study, it pleased her to feel that in other ways also we were very close. 'I understand all of n 8 3 : The Days of a Man 1900 Father's jokes," she sometimes asserted with gentle pride and satisfaction. Yet though keenly enjoying my freaks of fancy so long as they "kept their place," she had an unusually mature grasp of reality as distinguished from imagina- tionor sentiment. Walking once with her in the garden, I repeated Riley's poem, "The Gobelins will get you if you don't watch out." :< But there isn't any such thing as a goblin, there never was and never is going to be such a thing," said she. "Maybe," I remarked, remi- niscent of Bishop Berkeley's idealism, "there isn't any such a thing as anything." "Oh, yes, there is," she answered, "there is such a thing as anything," and, looking around for an unquestioned reality, added triumphantly, 'There is such a thing as a squash." To be the parents of a child so "nobly planned' 1 gave us a higher estimate of ourselves I think deservedly so. One consolation, moreover, was ours; she had never known evil, sorrow, or pain save in her last illness, which she bore with the joyous patience inherent in her nature. Afterward, my wife and I presented to the University "the Barbara Jordan Library," for which we provided special shelves in one of the rooms of what is now Jordan Hall. In the center on the cabinet containing her birds is a beautiful bronze plate designed by Professor Bolton Coit Brown, and bearing this inscription: TO THE STUDY OF ORNITHOLOGY THIS ROOM IS DEDICATED IN TENDER MEMORY OF BARBARA JORDAN WHO KNEW AND LOVED THE BIRDS : 84 n BARBARA JORDAN, IQOO 19013 Barbara s Lullaby At her birth in November, 1891, the Class of '95 presented her with a handsome silver mug and spoon, suitably engraved. These are among Mrs. Jordan's treasured possessions. Another : ' Pioneer" tribute was BARBARA'S LULLABY 1 Lullaby, The night is nigh, Low and slow the herons fly; Sleep and rest, In the west All the sunset fires die. Down canyons steep The white fogs creep And blanket all the redwoods deep; Through the grass Wind-songs pass While the night-capped poppies sleep. Hush thee, dear! The dark is near, All the oak trees disappear; Dim bats fly, - Lullaby, The red lights blossom, the night is here. In 1901 we entered upon the second "Stone Age" Stanford's of Stanford University. The spacious and noble " c nd Outer Quadrangle with its great Memorial Arch, the Age" Chemical Laboratory which stands apart next the Museum, as well as the splendid Memorial Church 1 From "The Four-Leaved Clover," by Charles Kellogg Field; afterward set to music by the violinist, Antonio de Grassi, husband of Winifred June Morgan, a Stanford student of the late '90*3. C 85 3 The Days of a Man 1901 were at once begun, and in due time completed. Within the next few years, also, two more isolated structures, an imposing Library and a great Gym- nasium for men, rose on the eastern side of the main approach, facing, respectively, the Chemistry Build- ing and the Museum. Meanwhile to the latter great additions had been made by Mrs. Stanford. Millions Practically all this later construction, it should be to ,tby repeated, was paid for out of the three millions re- served by the surviving founder "to play with." Feeling that her life might be cut short at any moment, she was feverishly eager to complete, while she could, as much as possible of the original architec- tural scheme. To prepare for the long future was her immediate duty, she said, even though the academic side should temporarily suffer; a board of trustees might easily be dilatory in the matter of buildings. All of which was no doubt sound reasoning from that point of view. Yet in her natural desire to compass a great deal while strength and "pin money" remained, the brave woman allowed here and there a considerable and disastrous divergence from the monumental structural character of the Inner Quad- rangle. In particular she left out for economy's sake - - the steel framework which is the essential in "Class A" buildings. That she did not have to see the ruin subsequently wrought by the earthquake of 1906 was a matter of thanksgiving to all her friends. investiga- In the summer of this year I was asked to take 'l n 1.. charge of an extensive investigation of the fish and // aiuaiian fisheries fisheries of the Hawaiian Islands. In this duty I was assisted by Evermann, John N. Cobb, Edmund L. C 86 3 rtists and Scientists Goldsborough, Michitaro Sindo, and (later) Jenkins - besides two artists, Captain Charles Bradley Hudson and Albertus H. Baldwin. Evermann and I studied especially the natural history of the fishes; Cobb, then statistician of the United States Fish Commission, looked after economic interests; Hud- son and Baldwin painted as many as possible of the different species. 1 With me went my son Knight, then thirteen years old, while another lad, John T. Nichols, since ichthyologist of the American Museum of Natural History, joined us as volunteer assistant. Hudson's fish paintings in oil are the finest yet Hudson's made by any one. 2 His custom was to draw first an fi nework outline sketch of a dead specimen, then paint from a living example in our aquarium at Waikiki, the east- ern beach of the city front. The obvious drawback to this system was that it could be applied only to relatively common forms, those we were certain soon to capture and keep alive. Of several of the most interesting, only one or two specimens have ever been taken, and for these we had to be content with Baldwin's more conventional method, good of its kind, but necessarily in a different class. On the boat going over we found two fine young The women, recent graduates of Stanford, who had accepted positions as teachers in the Kamehameha School at Honolulu. One of them, Maryline Bar- nard, I had originally met in i88o. 3 The other, Grace Barnhisel, afterward married Captain Hudson. Of the attractive city of Honolulu, with its impos- 1 Reduced to postcard form, these pictures have ever since found great favor with tourists. 2 This artist's natural history efforts have been by no means confined to fishes. Several of the finest panoramic scenes in the San Francisco Academy of Sciences are by him. See Vol. I, Chapter x, page 238. 3 See Vol. I, Chapter ix, page 210. n 8 7 n romance The Days of a Man 1901 ing outpost, ''Diamond Head," its frontal beach of stately coco palms, its magnificent Bougainvillea vines, scarlet-flowered Poinciana trees, and hospitable Many people, I need offer no detailed account. From courtesies Hawaiian officials, especially Walter F. Frear, Chief Justice, M. M. Scott, Superintendent of Schools, and Sanford B. Dole, ex-President of the Republic, we received every courtesy. And Louis Berndt, the capable director of the fish market, put himself at our service. Honolulu's The very beautiful and well-equipped Bernice museum Pauahi Bishop Museum, representing the natural aquarium history and products of Oceanica, was founded by Mr. Charles R. Bishop and named in honor of his deceased wife. It was then under the direction of William T. Brigham, a Harvard man, extremely competent even if occasionally a bit critical toward people less capable than he. More recently an admirable aquarium has been established at Waikiki under the direction of Frederick A. Potter. In the large, finely lighted glass cases the amazing decoration of coral-reef fishes is displayed to great advantage. Of our many exploring trips the most interesting was that to Kilauea. Landing on the southwest or Kona coast of the great island of Hawaii, we first visited Kealakekua the tiny bay where Captain Cook lost his life after which, farther on, we hired a Japanese teamster to drive us across by coffee plan- tations, over old lava flows, and finally through fern and ohia l forests to the great crater. This gigantic 1 Ohia (Metrosideros), a tree of the Myrtle family, makes the bulk of the forests. Its incongruous rosettes of vivid crimson bloom, looking as though pinned on, contrast with the dark gray-green foliage. Beside it grows the pale green Koa, an acacia the very valuable timber of which is used in building the native canoes as well as for cabinet work. KILAUEA IN ERUPTION Photograph by Carl S. Carlsmith COLD LAVA FLOW, KILAUEA 1 9 o 1 3 Kilauea basin, more than two miles across, with vertical A huge walls 1 two to nine hundred feet high and floor covered with huge waves of hardened lava, has been much in public notice of late years. It is usually to a large extent dead and cold, but near one side there re- mained a deep vent two or three rods across which at the time of our visit was filled only with hot smoke given off by underlying superheated rock. At inter- vals, however, the crater overflows, forming a pond of from fifteen to twenty acres of fiery boiling lava. 2 Kilauea has no cone of its own, but lies on the south flank of the mighty snow-capped volcano of Mauna Loa (13,675 feet in height) which at intervals sends down from its summit fiery rivers of lava. In Loa 1920 one of these streams entered the sea on the west side, forming as it cooled a bridge over itself and creating a tremendous commotion. An interest- ing series of deep-water fishes killed by the heat was then obtained by Thomas Reinhardt, a native boat- man, and sent to me by Carl S. Carlsmith, a loyal Stanford graduate established in Hilo as attorney. Most of the species were new to science. Mauna Kea, the sister volcano to Mauna Loa, a few miles to the north and a shade higher (13,825 Kea feet), is wholly extinct. From Kilauea we went on to Hilo through one of the most delightful forests I have ever seen, it being chiefly composed of great fern trees with long, feathery fronds as delicate as a wood fern of the north in spite of their enormous size. Of these tree 1 Under the cliffs of Kilauea, away from the crater, the Tropic Bird Phtzthon, white with a long, pointed tail adorned by two red feathers, nests in abundance and undisturbed. 2 When next I saw Kilauea (1921) the last great eruption had subsided, though half a dozen spouting, flaming lava pools were visible in the deep central pit known as Halemaumau. The Days of a Man Giant ferns there are three species, the commonest, Cy- botium, having a shorter trunk and longer fronds than the umbrella-like one of Australia. With it in abundance occurs the large staghorn fern, Platy- cerium, a sort of huge brake. Its wiry, much- branched fronds which fork in zigzags, mixed with other brush on which it leans, form impenetrable thickets. The picturesque harbor of Hilo proved admirably adapted for our work, and there Knight discovered a new species of goby which we afterward named Gnatholepis knighti. As helper we employed a native * capable of the extraordinary feat of dragging a fierce coiled moray or giant eel from the crevice of a rock and bringing it safely in. While at Hilo we were often entertained and materially assisted by Carl- smith and his equally devoted Stanford wife. In Honolulu we met the veteran naturalist, Henry ' Henshaw, whose fish collections from the High Sierra I had studied twenty-two years before. Hen- shaw was deeply interested in the local bird-fauna, the chief group of songbirds illustrating in the most perfect fashion the phenomenon of geminate species. 2 Of the single family of Drepanidcz, an offshoot from the honey creepers Ccerebid